Cherasco... Where Time-Honored Traditions Meet Modern Sophistication
The city that is famous for the Flea Market, Wine and Snails....
Ah, Cherasco—this Piedmontese gem embodies the essence of the Italian good life. From the terraces of Verduno, the eye dances over the idyllic landscape, landing on a skyline that whispers secrets of wine, culture, and gastronomy. In Cherasco, the pursuit of beauty is not just a philosophy; it is a way of life, transcending from the vineyards to the kitchen, from its cobblestoned streets to its vibrant flea markets.
The Mantòetto Cru—Contributing to the Barolo Tradition If the Barolo wine could pen its autobiography, a small reference would be noted of Mantòetto. Nestled in the undulating hills of Cherasco, this cru vineyard possesses a terroir that meets the standard for Barolo wines but is also generally blended and not produced as a single vineyard wine. Immaculate clay-limestone soil, an exalted orientation to the sun, and a microclimate that coaxes the Nebbiolo grape to disclose its well known expressions while achieving perfect ripeness.
Culinary Odyssey—The Rise of Chiocciole Beyond vine leaves, Cherasco offers an aromatic stage where the humble snail, known locally as "Chiocciole," becomes an ensemble actor in a gastronomic play. These are no garden-variety mollusks. Tended on specialized farms, the Chiocciole are culinary chameleons, their earthy notes augmented by an alchemy of local herbs—thyme, rosemary, and a dash of elusive saffron. Each dish is an edible essay that weaves the story of the soil, the season, and the artisan, giving Chiocciole a rightful place in Piedmont's illustrious culinary canon.
The Monthly Ritual—Cherasco's Flea Market Saga Once a month, the town metamorphoses into a sprawling, elegant bazaar—a veritable Aladdin’s cave teeming with antiques, vintage fashion, and artisanal creations. It's a spectacle that transcends transaction, where each booth is a narrative, each item a relic of a story yearning to be discovered. The air itself seems impregnated with the musty charm of old books and the sweet allure of bygone Barolo vintages.
Urban Panorama—Architectural Splendor Meets Divine Cleanliness The town could well be a museum under the sky. Its cleanliness borders on divine, making the architectural medley—from Gothic portals to Baroque steeples—even more visually arresting. Here, the past and the present coexist in an unspoken agreement, sanctifying each cobblestone and façade.
Retail Alchemy and the Magic Museum Meander downtown, and you'll find boutiques that are less about commerce and more about communion—each store is an invitation to partake in local culture. And if reality becomes too pedestrian, step into the Magic Museum, a realm where illusions are currency and reality is negotiable.
The Arches and Parks—Oases of Serenity Elegance is not confined to architecture or a wine bottle; it spills onto the streets and manifests as arches and parks. These open spaces act as serene interludes in the symphony of everyday life, their arches standing as silent guardians to Cherasco's verdant secrets.
As you sit on your Verduno terrace, contemplating your next sojourn to Cherasco while savoring the complex layers of a Mantòetto Barolo, understand that Cherasco is not a mere location. It is an exquisitely complex experience, much like the wine in your glass—each element, from the soils of Mantòetto to the flavors of Chiocciole, contributing to an ineffable sense of beauty and depth. Here's to Cherasco—a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, a true embodiment of La Dolce Vita. Cheers.
Bra - Where Slow Food was Born
In the always surprising embrace of Italy's Piedmont region, where the vine-laden hills breathe life into the world's most lyrical wines, one finds Bra—Alba's less ostentatious yet equally enchanting sibling. Situated a mere whisper away from the cradle of Barolo and Barbaresco, Bra pulsates with an energy uniquely its own, delicately balanced between gastronomic opulence and industrial robustness.
Geographic Poetry—A Nexus of Contrasts Bra sits like a linchpin, connecting the grandeur of Turin to the vine-clad romance of the Langhe. This enviable location lends it a dual persona: part industrial dynamo, part culinary Eden. In juxtaposition to Alba, celebrated for its truffles and wines, Bra is not merely the other side of the coin but an entirely different currency, traded in robust sausages, fragrant cheeses, and Slow Food philosophies.
A Tale of Two Cuisines—Salsiccia and Cheese When it comes to gastronomic theater, Bra's stage is set with Salsiccia and Formaggio. The town is virtually synonymous with 'Salsiccia di Bra,' a sausage that dismisses fennel in favor of a trinity of beef, veal, and pork. Such audacity! And let's not forget Bra cheese, that alabaster wheel of raw cow's milk, subtly crumbly yet surprisingly creamy. Like Mantòetto to Barolo, these artisanal marvels are to Bra what brushstrokes are to a Da Vinci—a vital, irreplaceable part of the whole.
Architectural Eloquence—Sacred and Secular Bra is not without its structural odes to the divine and the artistic. The Baroque beauty of Santa Chiara and the austere dignity of Sant'Andrea offer spiritual respite, while the facades around Piazza Roma echo a secular sermon in bricks and mortar. Each structure is a stanza in an architectural poem that, when read in its entirety, reveals the essence of Bra.
Slow Food—An Ideological Harvest If Barolo is the king of wines, then Bra is undoubtedly the capital of Slow Food, an international movement begotten here. More than a culinary statement, Slow Food is Bra's manifesto—a declaration of intent that beckons us to pause, to savor, and to respect the provenance of our sustenance. The town is not just a location but an incubator of this culinary revolution, echoed in its education institutions and events like 'Cheese,' which celebrates the artisanal over the industrial.
Industrial Backbone—The Town's Beating Heart Unfurling beneath the gastronomic and cultural tapestry is Bra's industrial musculature. A manufacturing heart pumps life into the broader economy, reminding us that Bra's identity is not monolithic but a complex alloy of tradition and modernity.
Comparative Alchemy—Bra and Alba Unlike Alba, where the focus leans toward the earth's subterranean treasures and vineyard gems, Bra's narrative is a surface tale of textures and tastes, an above-ground cornucopia of meats, cheeses, and human ingenuity. Together, they form a complementary diptych—Alba, the muse of the soil and vine; Bra, the artisan of culture and cuisine.
As you sit, perhaps on a panoramic terrace in Verduno, savoring the legacy of Piedmont in your glass, envision a day-trip to Bra. Imagine a journey from vineyard to butcher, from church altar to Slow Food workshop. Bra is not just a geographical spot on the Italian map; it's a complex narrative, an anthology of the senses awaiting your discovery. In Bra, every cobblestone, every aroma, and every historical echo contributes to a living, breathing tapestry that dares you to slow down and savor life's manifold riches. Salute!
Polenzo
Amidst the luscious, vine-woven tapestries of Piedmont, one finds a narrative not solely dictated by the fabled wines or storied cities like Bra, Alba, and Cherasco. Instead, like an elusive footnote in a renowned novel, Polenzo offers an indispensable, if often overlooked, chapter in the region's enthralling saga. Located just a breath away from Bra, Verduno, and Cherasco, Polenzo captures the quintessence of a Piedmont still somewhat sheltered from the clamoring crowds.
Geographical Jewel—The Serene Sibling Polenzo rests gently beside the Tanaro River, a discreet jewel in Piedmont's opulent setting. This small, hidden haven, framed by vineyard-clad slopes and rippling water, harmonizes the rustic with the academic, as if whispering that wisdom and wonder coexist in nature’s sanctuary.
Historical Resonance—Echoes of the Savoys In this diminutive town, every brick and cobblestone bears the imprint of history. The Agenzia di Pollenzo, a neo-Gothic complex once a royal residence of the House of Savoy, serves as an architectural palimpsest - historical notes underlying the modern rewrite. The structure, which initially appears as a stark contrast to the humble surroundings, curiously unifies past regality with the town's rustic simplicity.
The University of Gastronomic Sciences—Wisdom in a Wineglass If one needs evidence that Polenzo is more than a mere idyllic outpost, one finds it in the University of Gastronomic Sciences, located within the walls of the Agenzia. A beacon of culinary erudition, this institution sprouted from the roots of the Slow Food Movement born in nearby Bra. Students and scholars from across the globe convene here to delve into the philosophy, ethics, and science of food and wine—a Socratic symposium where Plato’s allegory of the cave is supplanted by discussions of terroir and fermentation.
Culinary Curriculum—From Soil to Supper Polenzo not only hosts discussions about food but serves as a living laboratory for gastronomy. Whether it's the subtlety of local hazelnuts or the complexity of regional Barbera wines, Polenzo offers a field-to-fork education. The town’s bistros and cafés, often operated by alumni of the university, turn theoretical knowledge into practical, palatable experiences, effectively erasing the line between the classroom and the kitchen.
Polenzo and its Cosmic Neighbors—Bra, Verduno, Cherasco Polenzo is like an intimate chamber piece performed against the symphonic backdrops of Bra, Verduno, and Cherasco. If Bra resonates as the intellectual epicenter of the Slow Food Movement, Verduno intones the poetic lyricism of Barolo, and Cherasco paints a rich tableau of art and cuisine, then Polenzo serves as the quiet soliloquy—a reflective pause that gives the other movements their context and profundity.
Wine Narratives—Subtle Stanzas in a Vinous Epic Polenzo might not boast grand cru vineyards, but it plays an essential role in the wine community. It nurtures the next generation of oenologists and sommeliers, ensuring that the traditions and techniques of Piedmontese winemaking endure and evolve.
In a region so narrated by its larger-than-life wines and iconic culinary traditions, Polenzo is the sotto voce that commands attention not by volume but by virtue. As you contemplate your Piedmontese journey, perhaps from a vantage point in Verduno or while savoring a Barolo in Cherasco, consider a sojourn to Polenzo. Experience its academic verve, historic gravity, and tranquil beauty. Here, in this understated alcove of Piedmont, you'll discover that the most quietly spoken words often carry the deepest meaning. Cin cin!
Polenzo's Roman Past...
The Roman Echoes—Auditorium's Ancient Applause Imagine, if you will, the reverberating tones of a Roman orator or the impassioned lines of a classical play echoing off these ancient stones. The auditorium, now cushioned by modern homes and caressed by a verdant park, still retains the ghostly contours of its original form. Roman walls and ruins stand as rugged textures narrating tales of a world both ancient and eerily familiar.
Symbiosis of Centuries—From Colosseum to Community Today, this historic amphitheater serves not as a stage for dramatic performances but as an organic component of Polenzo's daily life. Homes have been constructed respectfully around its skeletal shape, while pathways and gardens thread their way through what were once rows of spectator seats. The auditorium thus reveals itself not as a dissected artifact but as a seamless symbiosis between antiquity and modernity.
The Park—Nature's Encore Surrounding the auditorium is a quaint park, offering the serenity of green space to punctuate the storied stones. It is as if Mother Nature herself has taken up the curatorship of this ancient stage, adorning it with trees that lend shade and flowers that pay colorful homage to the performers of yesteryears.
Architectural Archaeology—Deciphering Earth and Stone The mingling of Roman bricks and modern architecture serves as an architectural palimpsest, where each layer enhances, rather than obscures, the one before. It's a visible dialogue between past and present, where the language of mortar and stone articulates a shared heritage.
Timeless Inspiration—From Parchment to Palette Artists, scholars, and the simply curious find themselves irresistibly drawn to this site. For some, the auditorium and its surroundings offer a tactile connection to the annals of history; for others, it serves as an irreplaceable muse, its ancient walls providing a canvas upon which the imagination may freely sketch. Polenzo's Roman auditorium is more than a mere historical site; it's a cornerstone of community identity, linking the epochs in an enduring conversation that asks us to listen with both our minds and our hearts. It stands as an enduring reminder that, in Polenzo, one doesn't merely walk through history—here, you live it. So, as you meander through the lanes of Polenzo, perhaps after attending a lecture at the University of Gastronomic Sciences or partaking in a glass of local Barbera, make a detour to this transcendent space. Here, you'll find a tangible echo of eternity—a lyrical connection that makes Polenzo a requisite stanza in Piedmont's long, unfolding poem.
Novello
Ah, Novello—often eclipsed by its more famous neighbors, yet holding a singular enchantment that unfurls quietly like a well-kept secret. Set in the rolling hills of the Barolo valley, Novello is a vignette of idyllic Italian life. Here, history and terroir intertwine, weaving a narrative of tradition and transcendent flavors.
As you approach the town, your eyes are immediately drawn to the castle, a fairytale-like structure that reigns over the landscape. My wife found it so captivating that she declared it the dream venue for our son's wedding. Imagine exchanging vows with the backdrop of Novello's vine-clad hills, where the shifting sunlight paints ever-changing scenes across the valley. The town's Belvedere offers these panoramic views, framing vineyards that stretch towards the horizon, a living patchwork of grape varieties that shape the local viticulture.
Novello is renowned for its unique contribution to Italian oenology—Nas-Cetta. This elusive white wine, born from the hills that cradle the town, is a marvel of aromatic complexity and depth. It provides an intriguing counterpoint to the region's robust reds, revealing a facet of Novello's character that charms you with subtlety rather than grandeur.
As for its Barolo, the wines of Novello are poetic. Less structured perhaps than those of its famed neighbors, but brimming with floral notes that lead to an opulent, unforgettable finish. Barbera and Dolcetto find their place too, with a finesse that tells you immediately where you are—this is Novello, and its terroir speaks clearly through every pour.
A stroll through the town feels like a journey through time and culture. Local bars open their arms to visitors, offering not just glasses of wine but experiences—flavors, aromas, and vistas that you'll carry in your memory long after you've left. The church, a sanctuary of tranquility, stands in stoic beauty, echoing the collective spirituality of generations.
The town has preserved its winemaking heritage in the most evocative ways. Abandoned tools of the trade, once vital in crafting the local wines, have found new life as ornaments, adorning the town like jewels of rusted gold. It's as if the very air is imbued with the legacy of vintners past.
Don't miss the park at the entrance to Novello. It greets you with panoramas, casual dining options, and a sense of antiquity. The park's century-old walls may be unattended but are far from forgotten, exuding an air of graceful neglect, a juxtaposition of beauty and history that reflects the town itself.
In Novello, every stone, every vine, every face tells a story. It's a paesino where the soil is rich with more than just minerals—it's steeped in tales, in love, and in traditions that course through the veins of its people and its wines. Like its NAS-Cetta, Novello is an experience that lingers, a town that stays with you, quietly but indelibly, long after you've moved on to other landscapes.
Neive
Neive, a gem tucked away in the luscious region of Barbaresco, stands as an epitome of Italy's dolce vita, offering a blend of historical richness, viticultural prestige, and everyday enchantment. Widely regarded as one of Italy's "Borghi più belli"—the most beautiful villages—the town serves as an embodiment of the country's enduring allure.
Founded over a millennium ago, Neive's historical core remains remarkably intact, radiating from its regal castle that watches over the town like a guardian of history and culture. Stone-walled and ancient, the castle is not just an architectural marvel but a living relic that speaks to the region’s layered past. Yet, it's not just the castle that commands your gaze. The narrow, cobblestone streets, lined with quaint shops and rustic facades, seem frozen in time yet buzzing with life, a confluence of past and present.
The vineyards that envelop Neive are the birthplace of some of the world's most coveted Barbaresco wines. Here, the Nebbiolo grape reaches its zenith, delivering wines that are as complex as they are elegant, as robust as they are refined. The wines are a mirror reflecting the land and the expertise passed down through generations; they echo the hills, the soil, and the very air of Neive.
Let's not overlook Neive's gastronomic repertoire. The town is blessed with restaurants that are more than just places to dine; they are theaters where culinary artistry takes center stage. On one such perfect day, we found ourselves at a local eatery, joined by a yawning cat who personified the very essence of comfort and contentment that is so ubiquitous in Neive. It was as if the universe conspired to distill the town's charm into that single, serendipitous moment.
Wine bars and tasting rooms are sprinkled generously throughout the town, each offering a distinct tableau of the region’s enological prowess. The options for wine tours are equally impressive, ranging from intimate, family-run estates to grandiose wineries that showcase the full scale and ambition of Barbaresco's wine culture. These experiences are not merely about tasting wine but about immersing oneself in a rich, multifaceted narrative of terroir, craftsmanship, and community.
Neive is not just a place; it's a mood, a feeling, a state of being. It captivates your senses, seduces your palate, and steals your heart. Its charm lies not just in its vineyards, its wines, or its historical vestiges, but in an intangible quality that can only be described as soulfulness. This is Neive—a town where the walls whisper ancient tales, the wines sing songs of the earth, and every cobblestone, every face, every yawning cat, seems to hum a quiet, ageless melody of joy and belonging.
Treiso
Treiso, a quaint but vibrant commune, beckons from the heart of Italy's revered Barbaresco wine region. Though smaller than its illustrious neighbors, Treiso punches well above its weight, offering an authentic Italian experience suffused with scenic beauty, enological excellence, and an unmistakable sense of community.
The town's unique topography, perched at one of the highest elevations in the Langhe hills, grants sweeping panoramic views that are nothing short of awe-inspiring. Vine-clad hills roll infinitely into the horizon, a lush quilt of varying hues that shifts with the seasons. Amidst this backdrop, Treiso’s vineyards find their niche, contributing distinct notes to the prestigious Barbaresco symphony.
At its core, Treiso is a viticultural sanctum. The vineyards here are not just sources of grapes but wellsprings of history and identity. The Nebbiolo grape, the heart and soul of Barbaresco wine, is cultivated here with an almost reverential commitment. The wines it births are quintessentially Treiso: a complex interplay of power and subtlety, capturing the area's unique combination of soils, climate, and human expertise. The long history of winemaking in Treiso is a story told in each glass, an ode to the intricate ballet of earth and vine that has evolved over generations.
The culinary landscape is another compelling chapter in Treiso's story. The local eateries offer a fascinating blend of Piedmontese tradition and contemporary flair. Whether it's a rustic trattoria or a Michelin-starred restaurant, the focus remains the same: high-quality, locally sourced ingredients prepared with skill and passion. You'll find an extensive offering of regional specialties, from sumptuous truffle dishes to hearty stews, all meticulously paired with local wines.
Though relatively small, Treiso's centro storico, or historic center, is a hive of activity. From local enotecas showcasing the best of Piedmontese wines to artisan shops peddling everything from hand-crafted cheeses to bespoke Italian leather goods, the town square is the heartbeat of the community. Here, you'll also find the local church, a beautiful edifice whose humble exterior belies a richly decorated interior, a tangible testament to the town's deeply rooted faith.
What truly sets Treiso apart is its tight-knit community, a warm and inviting collective that adds a layer of richness to the town's already abundant offerings. Festivals and communal events abound, providing locals and visitors alike an opportunity to celebrate the joys of life, the gifts of the earth, and the bonds of friendship.
In Treiso, every vista is a painting, every meal a feast, and every sip of wine a revelation. It is a town that invites you to slow down, to breathe deeply, and to savor the singular beauty of a place where the natural and the cultivated, the ancient and the modern, blend seamlessly into a harmonious, enduring tapestry.
Bossolasco
As we wound our way up the spiraling roads of the Alta Langa, each bend revealing panoramas of verdant vineyards framed by ancient oaks and chestnuts, the air grew distinctly crisper, a tactile hint that we were approaching the highlands of Piemonte. As the road crested, the small yet captivating town of Bossolasco revealed itself, perched like an artist's masterpiece on a pastoral canvas of rolling hills and vineyards.
From the moment we entered the town, a subtle enchantment seemed to settle over us, as though we had crossed some invisible threshold into a realm where beauty and tranquility reigned. The first sight that caught our eye was the Rose Garden Walkway, a poetic space that stretched along the remnants of old castle walls. Here, the delicate fragrance of roses filled the air, mingling with the earthy scent of ancient stone and greenery. Alongside this enchanting walk were black-and-white photographs from the 1930s, their vintage charm lending an additional layer of nostalgia to the already romantic atmosphere.
As we ambled down the main thoroughfare, the architecture of Bossolasco beckoned for closer scrutiny—each building seemed to hold its own secret history, its façade a tapestry of intricate details, echoing the artisanal complexity that is the hallmark of Piemonte’s wines. The streets unspooled like tendrils of grapevines, leading us to discover cozy bars and eateries, each one promising an authentic taste of the local cuisine and, of course, the wine.
Ah, the wine. Bossolasco may sit in the highlands of the Alta Langa, but it's deeply tethered to the revolution that is stirring the still wines into effervescence—literally. Just a stone’s throw away from the town are vineyards dedicated to the production of Alta Langa sparkling wines. Crafted using the Méthode Champenoise, these wines may not yet possess the intricate nuance of Champagne, but they are a testament to the region's innovation and potential. The base grapes—Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—are cultivated with a respect for terroir that allows for an expression that is uniquely Piemontese. While sipping on a flute of this burgeoning bubbly, one can't help but feel the effervescent excitement of a wine style in the midst of its own renaissance.
On the gastronomic front, Bossolasco holds its own with an array of establishments that range from quaint trattorias to modern cafes. The common thread? A focus on local produce, whether it's a board of aged cheeses or a dish of freshly made pasta adorned with seasonal vegetables. This, combined with an exquisite glass of Barolo or Alta Langa sparkling, creates an alchemy of flavors that speaks of place and history.
As if to bless the scenic views of the Alta Langa, the Angel of Bossolasco reigns from the Belvedere, a statue so elegantly rendered that it nearly defies earthly origin. Crafted with artistic finesse, each curve and contour of the angel seems to capture the light in a unique way, as if interacting with the divine. Its wings are spread in a majestic arc, evoking a sense of protective grace over the town and the surrounding vineyards. Upon encountering this angelic presence, one can't help but feel a momentary suspension of breath—a physical response to an almost ethereal beauty. As you stand there, overlooking the panoramic views framed by this celestial sentinel, you feel as though you're in the presence of the very soul of the Alta Langa, silently bearing witness to the myriad stories that have shaped this land and its people.
Adding a touch of whimsy to Bossolasco's elegance are its adorable 'little people' statues. Positioned at various points around town—near gardens, or perhaps more practically, holding signs warning of speed bumps—they bring a smile to your face. Each one appears engaged in some form of civic duty, imbued with a sense of humor that adds another layer to the complex tapestry of Bossolasco's charm. They seem to say that in Bossolasco, beauty can be grand and awe-inspiring, like the Angel of the Alta Langa, but it can also be small, delightful, and found in the most unexpected places.
As the day began to wane, we took one last gaze over the countryside from a vantage point that offered sweeping views of the vineyards to the north. The setting sun bathed the landscape in a golden hue, as if toasting to the enduring splendor of Bossolasco and its surrounding lands.
It’s often said that beauty resides in the details, and Bossolasco, with its harmonious blend of history, aesthetics, and gastronomy, is a stunning testament to this idea. Each moment spent in this Alta Langa haven seemed suspended in a timeless serenity, etched into the very terroir of our memories, much like the wines we had the pleasure of experiencing. And as we reluctantly drove away, we couldn't help but feel a sense of profound gratitude for having discovered another of Piemonte's precious gems. Here's to Bossolasco—where beauty isn't just seen or tasted, but profoundly felt.
Santa Vittoria D'Alba
Perched elegantly upon a vantage point overlooking the Tanaro River Valley, Santa Vittoria d'Alba effortlessly combines the grandeur of its storied past with the present's cultivated elegance. As we drove towards the town, framed against a sky that seemed to span multiple shades of blue, a palpable sense of history permeated the atmosphere.
Upon entering, the imposing silhouette of the castle immediately commanded our attention. Majestic and regal, the structure is an architectural tribute to the area’s rich history, towering over the Tanaro River valley with a grace and strength that's emblematic of the region itself. Sitting just adjacent to this venerable fortress is the town’s crown culinary jewel—a restaurant that manages to encapsulate the essence of Santa Vittoria d’Alba on a plate. Within its hallowed halls, tradition and innovation dance in harmony, just as they do throughout the town. Whether it’s a classic dish reimagined or a new creation rooted in local flavors, each morsel exudes a sense of place, a terroir-driven taste that echoes the town's unique heritage. Accompany this with a glass of stellar local wine, and the dining experience becomes almost transcendental. Ristorante Castello di Vittoria is a highly rated and renowned restaurant and attracts both locals and tourists alike. The glassed-in porch allows for an intimate meal overlooking the valley, especially at dusk, that creates an unforgettable experience for all.
The panoramic vista offered from the castle’s promenade is another of Santa Vittoria d’Alba’s unrivaled attractions. The Tanaro River curls lazily through the landscape, a liquid ribbon that winds its way past Pollenzo and other neighboring towns. As we looked back, Verduno—our home—unfolded in the distance, its recognizable hospital building dotting the landscape. Beyond that, the sweeping grandeur of the Barolo Valley stretched out like an intricate quilt, patchworked with vineyards and small, picturesque towns.
From this lofty perch, it was as if the entire scope of Piemonte was spread out before us, offering a dramatic tableau that highlighted the symbiotic relationship between the land and its people, and between history and the present day. It is a perspective that can’t help but incite reflection—not just on the beauty of the land, but also on how this breathtaking scenery has shaped, and been shaped by, centuries of human endeavor.
But it’s not just in the grand gestures where Santa Vittoria d’Alba excels. Every narrow street, every quaint shop, every cobblestone seems to tell a tale. Walking around, one gets a sense of an unbroken thread that stretches from past to present, every footfall a soft echo in an ongoing narrative that stretches back for centuries.
The intricacies of Santa Vittoria d’Alba are like the complex notes of a well-aged wine: they reveal themselves slowly, drawing you in until you’re completely enthralled. Whether it’s the majesty of the overlooking castle, the succulent offerings of its top-tier restaurant, or the panoramic views that stretch out to encompass both history and future, Santa Vittoria d'Alba leaves an indelible impression.
Some history:
Incorporating the rich tapestry of Santa Vittoria d'Alba's history, one cannot overlook the artifacts housed in the Sala Consiliare of the civic palace. Collected in the 1950s by the passionate local historian Mario Rosati, these relics span an impressive timeframe that reaches back into prehistory, with the most ancient piece being a Neolithic stone ax.
While scant evidence exists to prove that this land was inhabited since prehistoric times, there are more substantial proofs of its significance during the Roman period. Its proximity to ancient Alba and especially to Pollentia (now Pollenzo) is noteworthy. Santa Vittoria was famous for its exquisite terracotta products (Anforianum) and occupied a strategic location overlooking the plains below, intersected by important communication routes to and from Asti. Over the years, several digs near these ancient roads have unearthed various inhumation and cremation burial sites.
The origin of the town's name is a subject of ongoing speculation. The most widely accepted theory suggests it was originally named after an unspecified Roman "victory," later prefixed by "sancta" during the period of Christian expansion. Two ancient churches once stood here, dedicated to "Beatae Victoriae in silva" and "S. Victoriae in platea," attesting to the deep-rooted veneration for the Sabine-origin saint named Victoria, martyred in 253 AD.
Medieval documents mention a modest settlement located between the "rivus Pontrisellum" and Melléa stream, marked by a small castle and a church dedicated to St. Martin. Over the subsequent centuries, Santa Vittoria went through a period of decline, similar to neighboring Pollenzo, only to rise again around the year 1000. It became a point of contention between the Abbot of Breme and the Bishop of Asti. This led to its fortification with a "castrum," setting the stage for exhausting wars with the neighboring cities of Alba and Asti.
Following the fall of the Angevin dominion, the Visconti family seized control of Santa Vittoria, incorporating it into their territorial holdings along with Pollenzo, Bra, and Pocapaglia. The late 1300s saw Visconti Captain Antonio Porro unsuccessfully besieged by the troops of Acaia. Eventually, in 1433, the fiefdom of Santa Vittoria was awarded to the Romagnano family. Three centuries later, it passed to Luigi Caissotti, Marquis of Verduno, despite the legal disputes initiated by the Romagnanos. Later claimed by the House of Savoy, the fiefdom was finally bequeathed to them in 1753 and subsequently incorporated into the royal patrimony.
It's this multilayered, complex history that provides the backdrop against which modern Santa Vittoria d’Alba exists—a town not merely resting on the laurels of its past but using them as the foundation upon which to build a vivid, vital present. Whether enjoying a sumptuous meal in the shadow of the grand castle or taking in panoramic views that connect you to centuries of history, a visit to Santa Vittoria d’Alba feels like a journey through time, a temporal tapestry woven with threads of ancient history, religious devotion, political intrigue, and cultural richness.
Roddi
Roddi, a picturesque town in Italy’s renowned Langhe region, stands as an epitome of rustic charm and old-world allure. Situated just a few kilometers from Alba, it's a lesser-known gem that captures the heart of Piedmont’s cultural and gastronomic heritage.
The first thing that greets you as you approach Roddi is its iconic castle. Majestic and steeped in history, the Castello di Roddi offers more than just eye-catching architecture; it also provides panoramic views of the Langhe hills, studded with vineyards that produce some of the world's most celebrated wines. The castle itself is a living museum, echoing with tales of medieval legends and battles, and it adds a layer of historical depth to the town’s profile.
Roddi's viticultural landscape is as compelling as its history. Although it's not as famous as its Barolo and Barbaresco neighbors, the town holds its own with a rich winemaking tradition. Vineyards here are often smaller, family-run estates, which make for intimate and insightful wine-tasting experiences. The local wines, often crafted from Nebbiolo and Barbera grapes, capture the essence of the region's unique terroir—complex, elegant, and deeply rooted in the land.
Culinary adventures are another quintessential part of the Roddi experience. This is truffle country, and the local cuisine makes ample use of this precious underground mushroom. Whether it’s a fine-dining establishment or a cozy osteria, you’ll encounter menus filled with Piedmontese classics like tajarin al tartufo (thin pasta with truffles) and brasato al Barolo (beef braised in Barolo wine).
The town center is a labyrinth of cobbled streets and ancient buildings that beckon you to explore. The local church, often the cultural heart of Italian towns, is no exception in Roddi. It serves not just as a place of worship but also as a community gathering spot, echoing with both the divine and the human aspects of life in this small town.
Roddi’s strength lies in its community. Despite its small size, the town is a bustling hub of festivals, markets, and events that celebrate the local culture. From the annual truffle fair to the summer music festivals, the community calendar is always full, making any time a good time to visit.
Wandering around Roddi feels like a step back in time. The pace is slower, the air is cleaner, and the vistas are unspoiled. It is a town where every stone, every vine, and every face tells a story—a place where you don't just observe the culture, you become a part of it. Roddi is not just a destination; it’s an experience, a serene and soulful retreat that captures the timeless beauty of Italy’s Langhe region.
Hiking to Roddi ...
Roddi Barolo Wines - Bricco Imbroglio
Roddi, a small village in the Langhe region, has only one vineyard designated to produce Barolo DOCG wines. This vineyard is located in the Bricco Ambrogio cru, which is the only officially recognized MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) for Barolo in Roddi.
Bricco Ambrogio is known for producing Barolo wines with distinct characteristics, reflecting the terroir of this northern Commune. The wines from this vineyard are often characterized by their elegance, balance, and approachability, with notable red fruit flavors and softer tannins. The unique terroir of Bricco Ambrogio, with its specific soil composition and microclimate, contributes to these qualities.
Bricco Ambrogio's soil is primarily composed of calcareous clay and marl, with some sand and siltstone layers. This structure provides excellent drainage and allows the vines to access essential nutrients and water, which in turn affects the grapes' ripening and flavor development. The calcareous clay and marl soils also contribute to the elegant structure and minerality often found in the Bricco wines.
The Langhe region, and Bricco Ambrogio in particular, enjoys a unique microclimate due to its proximity to the Tanaro River, the Maritime Alps, and the Ligurian Apennines. This location results in a combination of continental and Mediterranean influences, with warm days and cool nights during the growing season. This diurnal temperature variation allows the Nebbiolo grapes to achieve phenolic ripeness while retaining their natural acidity, leading to balanced and complex wines. Visiting Roddi and the Bricco Ambrogio vineyard is a rewarding experience for wine enthusiasts, as it offers the opportunity to taste and appreciate Barolo wines that may differ from the more well-known examples from other areas within the region. The village's charming atmosphere, picturesque scenery, and inviting local cuisine further enhance the experience of exploring this lesser-known part of the Langhe wine region.
Walking around Roddi...
Taking a walk around Roddi is a delightful way to experience the charm of rural Italian life and the picturesque landscapes that surround the village. Roddi is nestled among vineyards, rolling hills, and lush green countryside, making it an ideal setting for a leisurely stroll or aggressive hike.
As you walk through the village, you can admire the well-preserved medieval architecture, including the imposing Roddi Castle, which dates back to the 12th century. This historic fortress has been restored and now houses a museum dedicated to the local truffle culture and the International Alba White Truffle Fair.
One might also come across the Church of San Sebastiano, a beautiful example of Baroque architecture that contains several interesting frescoes and artworks. Another noteworthy church is the parish church of San Giovanni Battista, which houses a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary from the 15th century.
As you meander through the village, you can stop by local shops and trattorias to sample the region's cuisine and wine. The Langhe region is famous for its gastronomy, including the Alba white truffle and a variety of local dishes such as tajarin, agnolotti, and brasato al Barolo. Be sure to taste some of the wines produced in the area, including the elegant Barolo DOCG from Bricco Ambrogio. Follow the numerous trails and paths that lead through the vineyards and you will find stunning views of the Alps and the Langhe region. These trails provide an opportunity to enjoy the natural beauty of the area, observe the local viticulture practices, and immerse yourself in the tranquil atmosphere of rural Italy.
Alba
Nestled in the heart of Piedmont's Langhe region, Alba is a captivating blend of medieval charm, contemporary flair, and gastronomic delights. Often dubbed the "White Truffle Capital," this bustling city is far more than just a single note—it's a rich tapestry of cultural, culinary, and viticultural experiences.
Upon entering Alba, one of the first things to greet you is the newly installed statue in the main square, a contemporary touch that symbolizes the city's openness to innovation while preserving its heritage. The square itself, often teeming with both locals and visitors, serves as a welcoming prelude to the city's numerous enchanting piazzas. These squares are the communal heart of Alba, where laughter, conversations, and the aroma of fresh coffee fill the air.
The city's famed Duomo has recently undergone a face-lift but remains a pinnacle of religious and architectural significance. Its intricately designed interiors and awe-inspiring façade are reflective of Alba's rich history, one that stretches back to Roman times and is kept alive through its well-preserved medieval center.
Alba is also a shopping haven, where the old meets the new. From high-end Italian boutiques to charming antique shops, there is something for every discerning shopper. The markets are an essential experience; fragrances of cheese, cured meats, and of course, the illustrious white truffles fill the air. For the gastronomic pilgrim, Alba offers a divine selection of eateries, including Piazza Duomo, a restaurant that has garnered three Michelin stars for its sublime interpretation of local cuisine.
But perhaps what truly sets Alba apart is its perfect positioning as a gateway to the Langhe's wine country. With sprawling vineyards just a short drive away in any direction, it's a veritable hub for wine aficionados. Barolo to the southwest, Barbaresco to the northeast—these iconic wine regions are within easy reach, making Alba a central launching pad for vineyard tours and tastings. Wine cellars and enotecas within the city itself offer a vast selection of local wines, allowing you to savor the flavors of Piedmont even if you're short on time.
The food and wine scene in Alba is second to none, but its arts and entertainment offerings are equally compelling. The city hosts a variety of events throughout the year, from the globally renowned Alba White Truffle Fair to music festivals and art exhibitions, ensuring that the local culture is not just seen but actively celebrated.
As a growing city, Alba effortlessly caters to modern needs while retaining its historical allure. Whether you're staying in a luxe hotel or a charming B&B, the hospitality is warm and authentically Piedmontese.
In essence, Alba captures the soul of the region—sophisticated yet rustic, historic yet vibrant, local yet universally appealing. It's a city that not only stands as a destination in its own right but also as the heart of a region that pulses with life, flavor, and unparalleled beauty.
Al Dente and Sempre in Bolla
Tucked away in one of Alba's cobblestone streets, Ristorante Al Dente is a culinary gem that captures the essence of Piedmont's rich gastronomic culture. A quintessential Italian eatery, Al Dente is a harmonious blend of rustic charm and modern elegance, offering a dining experience that pays homage to regional traditions while subtly embracing contemporary twists.
As you step inside, you're immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of cozy warmth. The restaurant's décor strikes a balance between the nostalgic and the new, featuring exposed brick walls and wooden beams that provide a nod to Alba's historical architecture. However, the restaurant avoids a strictly traditional ambiance by incorporating modern design elements such as chic lighting fixtures and understated artwork. The result is a setting that is both inviting and stylish, a space where you can enjoy a romantic evening or a lively dinner with friends.
The menu is a genuine reflection of Piedmontese cuisine, relying on locally sourced ingredients and seasonal produce. Expect to find Alba's world-famous white truffles featuring prominently, particularly during truffle season. The wine list is a veritable ode to the region, offering an extensive selection that includes some of the finest Barolos and Barbarescos, not to mention a curated assortment of other Italian and international wines.
Al Dente's signature dish, the Agnolotti del Plin, serves as a testament to the kitchen's mastery of regional cuisine. These delicate pasta pockets filled with a mixture of veal and pork, showcase the simplicity and depth of flavors that Piedmontese cooking is celebrated for. The dish comes alive when paired with one of their recommended local wines, an experience that elevates your meal from mere dining to a culinary journey through Piedmont.
As for the level of expense, Al Dente offers a mid-to-high-end dining experience, but the quality of the food and service make it a worthwhile investment. Portions are generous, ensuring that you leave satiated both in body and soul.
Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned local, Al Dente offers an authentic slice of Alba's culinary landscape. It's not just a restaurant; it's a celebration of all that makes Piedmontese cuisine exceptional. For those who consider food an integral part of travel, a meal at Al Dente is akin to a mini-vacation in itself, a sojourn through the flavors and aromas that define this enchanting Italian region.
Piazza Duomo
Piazza Duomo, situated in the heart of Alba, is much more than just a three-Michelin-starred restaurant. It's a culinary institution, a rhapsody of flavors, and an art gallery rolled into one exquisite package. The restaurant is the brainchild of chef Enrico Crippa and the Ceretto family, who have crafted a gastronomic experience that merges modern creativity with deeply-rooted Piedmontese tradition.
Located on Alba's main square, next to the recently refurbished Cathedral, the restaurant's setting immediately signifies that you're in for something extraordinary. The exterior of the building is classically Italian—historically reverent, understated yet grand. The interior, however, explodes into a palette of colors and geometric patterns. Designed by artists Francesco Clemente and Sergio Perrero, the decor is an avant-garde backdrop for an equally inventive menu.
As you settle into the plush, vibrantly-colored chairs, the culinary ballet begins. Piazza Duomo offers a tasting menu that is an ode to the Piedmont region, interspersed with flashes of international influence. The dishes are a kaleidoscope of textures and flavors, each plate presented as a work of art. A meal might start with delicate amuse-bouches that awaken the palate, followed by intricate pasta dishes like the plin al tocco di rosso, tiny agnolotti with a touch of beetroot. The crescendo builds to a symphony of main courses featuring local meats or freshly-caught fish, culminating in a dessert that defies description.
Of course, the wine list is an extraordinary journey through the Langhe hills, featuring an array of Barolos, Barbarescos, and other local gems. Each wine is carefully selected to amplify the flavors of the food, enhancing the dining experience to a level that goes beyond mere sustenance.
Piazza Duomo is not a venue for casual dining; it's an experience, a celebration of culinary craftsmanship. The ambiance is elegant but not stuffy, allowing diners to revel in the complexity of each dish and the wine that accompanies it. The staff orchestrates the meal with a choreographed grace, attentive but never intrusive.
Given its accolades and the quality of the experience it offers, Piazza Duomo is a high-end establishment. Reservations are strongly advised, and the meal is best approached as a luxurious splurge. But for those who appreciate the transformative power of food and are seeking an unparalleled culinary journey, there are few places as rewarding.
When you step out of Piazza Duomo, you're not just leaving a restaurant. You're emerging from an immersive experience that elevates dining to a form of high art, an embodiment of the soul and spirit of Alba and the surrounding Piedmont region.
Alba - The Palio d'Asini
The Palio d'Asini, or the Donkey Palio of Alba, is an event that strikes an extraordinary balance between grandeur and absurdity, tradition and frivolity. Each year, the city squares and cobblestone streets of Alba become a veritable playground, yet a battleground too, as nine neighborhoods vie for the honor of victory, a victory as peculiar as it is prestigious: winning a donkey race.
Each neighborhood, known as a "Borgo" in Italian, fields its own donkey, jockey, and a squad of flag bearers and musicians. The colors and crests of the neighborhoods are displayed with pride and allegiance, not just on the participants but on balconies, windows, and storefronts. This isn't merely a race; it's a yearly reaffirmation of identity, community, and a shared history that dates back to the beginning of the 20th century. Whether you're from Borgo Delle Rondini or Borgo San Lorenzo, for one day, the entire focus of your year converges on the back of a somewhat unenthusiastic donkey.
The air is filled with the music of snare drums and trumpets, as each Borgo's band parades through the streets in the lead-up to the main event. These musicians are the heartbeat of the festivities, their rhythms elevating the collective anticipation, their melodies etching yet another year of tradition into the very soul of the city.
Arguably just as exciting as the race itself are the performances by the flag bearers and flag throwers. Dressed in period costumes, they execute breathtaking displays of agility and skill, tossing, twirling, and catching their flags with a precision that has to be seen to be believed. One of the most touching moments is the passing of this art between generations. There's nothing quite like watching a father and son execute a synchronized flag routine in the square—proof that tradition is alive, well, and in good hands.
If you're lucky enough to watch the race from a friend's apartment overlooking the main piazza, you're in for a treat. From here, you can see straight to the Duomo, the cathedral that has silently presided over countless Palios. As the donkeys and their riders line up at the starting point, as the flags wave and the crowd roars, it's as if time itself pauses, allowing past and present to merge in a singular, indescribable feeling of unity.
But let's not forget the donkeys. While they might seem to be passive participants—some might even argue, hostages—in this grand spectacle, their whimsical indifference is part of the charm. Whether they bolt straight for the finish line or decide halfway that they'd rather be literally anywhere else, their unpredictability is a big part of the race's appeal.
The Palio d'Asini is both majestic and completely entertaining, a harmonious blend of deep-rooted tradition and playful absurdity. The seriousness with which the city takes this event—ensuring that each banner wave, each trumpet call, and yes, each donkey step, is steeped in the weight of history—makes it all the more endearing. To witness the Palio is to participate in a ritual of communal spirit, a spectacle that, for all its idiosyncrasies, makes perfect sense to those who experience it.
In Alba, when the hooves of donkeys resonate against the cobblestones, when flags dance in the air to the rhythm of ancient anthems, you realize you're not just a spectator. You're a part of a living tapestry, a tradition that, much like the city's prized truffles, only gets better with time.
Verduno
Verduno: The Quintessence of Piedmontese Elegance, Wine, and Culinary Richness
Verduno is a charming commune located in the province of Cuneo, in the heart of the Piedmont region. This picturesque village, ensconced in the Langhe hills, is imbued with a rich historical past that can be traced back to medieval times. Verduno is strategically located near important urban centers like Bra and Cherasco and offers easy access to highways leading to Cuneo, Torino, and Savona. This prime location has given it historical significance as a place of transit and trade.
The architecture in Verduno is a testament to its history, with buildings that span different eras, each adding another layer to its rich architectural tapestry. The local church, for instance, is a blend of Baroque and neoclassical influences. Verduno also boasts modern infrastructure, including a large and cutting-edge hospital that serves the region.
Verduno is practically synonymous with wine culture, and it sits in the epicenter of some of Italy's most renowned wine regions. Barolo, often called the "King of Wines and the Wine of Kings," is produced in the surrounding vineyards. Verduno also contributes its unique varietals to the wine landscape, such as Verduno Pelaverga, a light red wine celebrated for its versatility.
From age-old vineyards like Castello di Verduno and Fratelli Alessandria to emerging stars like Diego Morra and Cadia, Verduno encapsulates the full range of the wine industry. Bel Colle is another iconic winery that has continued to capture the essence of the terroir in its esteemed bottles. These wineries serve as essential stops on any wine lover's journey through the region.
Verduno offers a gastronomic experience that's as refined as its wines. Ristoranti like Agnolot and Ca Del Re are culinary landmarks, offering delectable Piedmontese cuisine that perfectly complements the local wine. They uphold the tradition of using fresh, seasonal ingredients to create dishes that are both sophisticated and deeply rooted in regional culinary heritage.
Owning a home in Verduno comes with the added benefit of panoramic vistas, including views that stretch out to the Monviso mountain. From the local Belvedere, the Barolo valley unveils itself in a breathtaking tableau of rolling vineyards and historical communes—each a crucial piece in the complex puzzle of Piedmont's terroir.
Verduno's strategic location near significant urban centers and transportation routes makes it not just a serene rural escape but a convenient base for exploring the wider region. Whether you're traveling to the nearby gastronomic city of Bra, historic Cherasco, or planning to drive down to Cuneo, Torino, or Savona, Verduno is at the crossroads of everything the Piedmont region has to offer.
Verduno is more than a destination; it's an experience that captures the spirit of Piedmont in every glass of Barolo or Pelaverga, in every bite of its exquisite cuisine, and in every view from its panoramic vistas. It serves as a perfect mirror to the Piedmontese lifestyle—a blend of history, culinary art, and viticulture. Verduno provides an idyllic Italian life that many dream of but few get to experience. And when you're there, whether looking out at the Monviso from your own home or sipping a glass of Monvigliero, you're not just witnessing the Piedmontese culture; you're a part of it.
Walking the vineyards...
Strolling through the picturesque landscape surrounding Verduno, is an experience that simultaneously soothes the soul and invigorates the senses. Just beyond the town's borders, the verdant vineyards beckon, inviting you to explore their undulating terrain, which is as charming as it is physically demanding.
As you meander along the trails, the hills gracefully recede from the elevated city, unveiling breathtaking panoramas of the Barolo Valley. This stunning vista reveals an intricate tapestry of vineyards, farms, wineries, equipment sheds, roads, homes, and mansions, all interwoven to create a mesmerizing scene that captures the essence of rural Italy.
To the north, the majestic Alps tower over the landscape, with glimpses of Cherasco and Bra nestled in their embrace. As you venture along the southern vineyard trails, the winding paths reveal the way to La Morra, Roddi, Alba, and even the distant Barbaresco. The sheer beauty of the surroundings is enough to halt you in your tracks, leaving you in awe of the natural splendor that envelops you.
This idyllic walk is more than just a pleasant excursion; it offers an invigorating workout amidst the enchanting backdrop of the Italian countryside. As you traverse the vineyards and drink in the serene vistas, you are immersed in nature's embrace, creating an experience that is both profoundly calming and deeply inspiring.
Diano D'Alba - A Jewel of the Langhe, Where Tradition and Terroir Meet
Diano d'Alba is a commune in the Province of Cuneo, ensconced within the embrace of Italy's prized Langhe hills. This charming village has a history that stretches back to antiquity. Its proximity to Alba, the hub of gastronomy and viticulture, adds to its allure and importance.
Architectural Insights The architecture of Diano d'Alba is a harmonious blend of old and new, showcasing medieval structures alongside more modern buildings. The town's churches are particularly noteworthy, often cited as prime examples of Piedmontese religious architecture. The heart of the community is frequently buzzing with activity, and every corner seems to tell a tale of the town's rich history.
Wine Culture: A Legacy in a Bottle Diano d'Alba is a sanctuary for wine aficionados. The commune is best known for its Dolcetto wine, a red varietal that pairs wonderfully with a range of foods. The soil and microclimate provide an ideal setting for viticulture, and it shows in the quality of wines produced here.
Vineyards and Wineries Renowned wineries surround the town, making it a destination for those on a pilgrimage for the finest Italian wines. Whether you prefer a robust red or a crisp, aromatic white, Diano d'Alba has something to offer.
Culinary Delights Much like its wines, the food in Diano d'Alba is something to write home about. Local restaurants offer Piedmontese fare that complements the local wines perfectly. Truffles, cheeses, and traditional dishes like tajarin and agnolotti are stars of the culinary scene.
Scenic Splendor Diano d'Alba offers striking panoramic views of the surrounding Langhe hills. The landscape is punctuated by vineyards, which in autumn transform into a patchwork of gold and ruby foliage. For the nature enthusiast, it's a dream come true, with hiking trails that offer stunning vistas and a touch of the bucolic.
The People and Lifestyle The community here is tight-knit, with traditions that have been passed down through generations. Festivals and events fill the calendar, providing ample opportunities for socializing and cultural enrichment.
Accessibility and Proximity Diano d'Alba's accessible location makes it easy for residents and visitors to explore neighboring towns and cities. Alba is just a short drive away, offering a wider range of amenities and experiences. The town also enjoys good transport links to the rest of the region.
Diano d'Alba is a place where tradition and modernity exist in harmonious balance. It offers a glimpse into the soul of the Langhe region, reflected in its wine, food, landscapes, and most of all, its people. The town is a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic Piedmontese experience—simple yet extraordinary, much like a bottle of its celebrated Dolcetto.