Nebbiolo wines are some of my favorite wines in the world but this section is about non-italian varieties. Well, Xinomavro is a greek grape and wine style that resembles Nebbiolo and deserves some attention.
Xinomavro is grown around Greece but the best examples of the wines are from the Northern region of Macedonia and the two most famous PDOs of Naoussa and Amynteo. Both of these wine regions produce wines under the European Union PDO system with 100% of Xinomavro grapes. Some wines are made outside the PDO rules by blending in Merlot and those wines are receiving more and more attention as the Merlot softens the wine, adds some body and takes the edge off of the typically high tanning levels of a Xinomavro wine. The Macedonia region has both mountains and plains with varying climates. The continental and cooler regions in the mountains is where one will find Naoussa and Amynteo. The vineyards are planted on each side of Mount Vermio at elevations of 150 to 400 meters offering cooler temperatures and a high diurnal range for acid retention. The best sites are protected from consistent and cold winds that blow through. Some of the best sites are beginning to produce single vineyard wines to better reflect their quality. Traditionally, Xinomavro wines are extremely acidic and tannic, requiring extensive bottle aging before most people could enjoy them. They were picked at a point where they were just ripe and often had green and potentially underripe favors. The wines were matured in large, neutral oak vessels and focused less of fruit and more on the development of spicy and meaty wines. In the 1990s, a trend to using French barriques started and wines with more resolved but firmer tannins, greater color stability, more body and oaky aromas were the result. Modern winemaking has moved to picking riper fruit, performing a cold soak (extracts color and flavor without the tannins) and employing whole bunches in fermentation. The wines are softer, rounder, less tannic, deeper color and have a far greater focus on fruit.
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Vintage Port is a high quality, fortified wine produced in the Douro region of Portugal that is considered to be of the highest quality and produced only when declared, two years after harvest, that the quality merits “vintage” designation. By comparison Maury is a Grenache based Vin Dou Naturel of Southwest France in the Roussillon area that is also a fortified wine style. Fermentation is the chemical process of yeast and sugar reacting to create alcohol, carbon dioxide and heat used in the production of wine and other alcohol beverages. In both cases, the sugar is contained in the grape and the yeast are ambient, native yeasts present on the bloom of the grape. Fortification is the process of adding a high alcohol by volume spirit to a base wine during or after fermentation is complete to increase the alcohol levels, stop fermentation for those cases when a wine is fortified during fermentation and timed when the residual sugars (the remaining sugar in the must) is at the desired levels. Vintage port is the highest quality and fermentation starts in the processing system used. For many high-quality vintage ports, the traditional lagares system, a 18 inch deep concrete rectangle in which workers crush the grapes with their feet, is used to crush the grapes and the fermentation will begin with the ambient yeasts at temperatures of 28-32 degrees, ideal to create a rate of fermentation that allows for adequate extraction of color, flavors and tannins (tannins in particular are more soluble in alcohol rich medium). Extraction is very important for Vintage ports since they are designed to age for extended periods (up to decades) and the extraction helps create strong structure, color stability from the binding of color and tannin compounds as well as the high alcohol and good acid structure in a vintage port). When the fermentation reaches a point of 5-7 percent alcohol, the winemaker will decide to drain the fermenting wine for fortification, taking into account the time of drainage. Fermentation will continue until the fortification occurs, continuing to consume sugars. The winemaker looks to maintain a residual sugar level of 100-120 g/L for a vintage port and must calculate the entire process so that the wine is fortified when these sugar levels are present. The fortification of Port is done with 77% alcohol by volume spirit and is added to achieve a total alcohol level of 18-20% abv. With the relatively low 77% abv of the spirit (compared to 96% for the Maury wine and most other categories of fortified wines) the final wine will contain 20-25% of spirit in its final volume. For Vintage port, the highest quality spirit will be used adding to price and with winemaker judgement regarding its overall spirit character within the wine. Some styles may prefer more character while others may choose a more neutral spirit to allow more primary flavors to show through. Maury ports are red VDN’s made in a range of styles (e.g., aging terms for unaged, some aging and extended aging including Rimage, Hors d’Age and Rancio) that undergo similar processes for fermentation and fortification which is limited in this question. Fermentation is done typically in a more protective environment using stainless steel with temperature control at temperatures in a similar range to Port wines, 28 degrees in this case. Fermentation is commonly done on the skins to increase extraction of color, flavor and tannin. Similar to port this is important for wines intended for extended aging. Maceration (contact and cap management to keep the cap wet and integrated) will continue during fermentation for a few weeks. For Maury wines, fortification timing is similar in that it is done during fermentation. In the case of Maury, a 96% fortification spirit is added when the residual sugars are in the 45 g/l range up to 100 to 120 g/l, depending on style and winemaker intent. The fortification is added when the base wine reaches 5-8 % abv and the wine is fortified to 15-18% abv. With the higher abv of the spirit, less overall spirit is present by volume in the final wine (if 77% is added, more is required to reach the 15-18% abv than with the 96% spirit), being about 5-10% of the total volume and having less influence in the final wine style and price (less spirit is less price) In both wines the fortification timing results in sweet style fortified wines. Climate and Natural Factors
Catalunya Spain areas with sub-areas of Penedes (close to Barcelona and the most important and essentially the center of Cava production) Tarragona, Lleida and Rioja. Penedes is Mediterranean climate with bright, sunny summers and mild winters with 540 mm of rainfall throughout the year. Vineyards at the coast move inland and the majority are at 200-300 m with some at 700-800 m elevation. High diurnal range at the higher altitudes result in more intense flavors, higher acid, and improved age worthiness. Soils range from alluvial clay to stony clay and granite at elevation. Almost all soils are poor fertility with adequate drainage and water retention balance. Lleida Province – rises into the mountains and includes both slopes and high plains with Mediterranean climate at low levels becoming continental with higher diurnal range at altitude. Irrigation from the Pyrenees created viable vineyards from an otherwise semi-desert. 2200 ha Raimat estate that produces still wines is the singe largest family-owned estate in Spain Tarragona – mostly low hills and Mediterranean climate, macabeo dominated and used for early drinking versions. Trepat is grown here and used in Rosado wines (conca de Barbera) Rioja and Cantabrian Mountains – mountains protect the area from excessive rain from the Atlantic. High altitude (425m for Rioja) gives higher acidity. Here it is just Macabeo and Chardonnay and Macabeo ripens later here. Human Factors and Yield
Viticultural Factors and Harvest
Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation Quality focused houses hand harvest and whole bunch press. Pneumatic and soft press. Yield is 80 hl/ha and 100 l per 150 kg Rose requires 25% black grapes with skin contact Adjustment is not usually required Fermentation 14-16 degree C fermentation with cultured yeasts in Stainless Steel Malo? Blocked to preserve acidity. Blending? Usually a blend of the available grapes. Rioja is Viura and Chardonnay only and some varietal wines are made. Reserve winesare not common to avoid cost of storage. Usually vintage but not marked Maturation Traditional Method – lees aging dependent on style with 9 months minimum. Bottling Most is brut and 8-9 g/ l. Medium dry is popular with exports to Germany and domestically. New focus on brut nature for quality producers Key point is the investment for large volume processing of Traditional method wines using gyropalletes, new yeast strains that improve flocculation speed, and glass bottles that are smoother and allow for faster accumulation of sediment in the neck. Rotating drums can reduce total disgorgement process to 80 minutes. . Production High volume for traditional method wines. Style(s) Cava – 9 months lees, whites are light to medium intensity lemon, apple and herbal notes with light autolytic character and medium to medium + acidity Cava Riserva – 15 months on lees with more autolytics and good to VG Cava Gran Riserva – 30 months on lees with smoky autolytic notes, good to outstanding Cava de Parejes Calificado – Estate wines with higher standards and lower yields. Single estate, owned by the producer where all wine is made from at least 10-year old vines with yield reduced to 8000 kg/ha and 48 hl/ha. A minimum of 36 months on lees. Cannot be acidified and must be Brut. Corpinnat – outside the DO in 2019 to commit to 100% organic grapes, grownin Penedes and used in quality traditional method wines with three categories of lees aging – 18, 30, 60 months (Gramona and Recaredo) Penedes Classic – the byline is making DO Penedes the first to offer 100% organic, premium sparkling wines. 100% organic in Penedes – certified with 15 months lees aging minimum (Albet I Noya and Loxarel) Espumosa de Rioja – Grapes from the Rioja area under the DOCa and implemented in 2019. Requires hand harvest and traditional method with three levels Crianza – 15 months, Riserva of 24 months and Gran Annada of 36 months on lees. Marketing and Business considerations Consejo Regulador del Cava with four separate registers for Cava production:
Many companies cross the registers and require appropriate tracking, logging of transport and legal parameters to be met. Freixenet and Codorníu make 75% of Cava Cevipe Co-op proceses 55 million kilos of grapes but makes no finished Cava Total shipments of 250 million bottles in 2018 with primary exports to the UK, US, Belgium and Germany. Overall production growth of 50% since 2000 but small since 2010. Basic cava is 87% of all made with riserva at 11% and Gran Riserva and Paraje Calificado at 2% together. Rosado is 8% of sales, Climate and Natural Factors
Australia is a major player in domestic and international wine production with many styles. The grapes are grown and harvested across many areas with each tailored to the intended wine style. Traditional method wines receive the most attention here as they require cool sites with high diurnal range to assure the grapes are low in potential alcohol – 9-11%, just ripe in flavor and with retained acidity. Louis Roederer and the Tasmanian company Heemskerk established the efforts for high quality, traditional method wines in Tasmania. The southern location of the island is far south in latitude in the southern hemisphere and many locations are actually cooler than Champagne. There are three main regions – Tamar Valley, Pipers River and Coal River – each with cool but varying climates due to ocean effects and whether there are natural protections against the prevailing winds. Tamar is warmer than Pipers river (adjacent and close) but is sheltered from the cool Southern Ocean and harvests two weeks earlier. Coal Valley is warm relative to the island even being further south. Latitude in Tasmania creates highly intense sunlight and long slow ripening and while they are considering subzone identification, most blend grapes from across the varying climates for balance in acidity and ripeness. Other areas on the main island include Yarra Valley (ocean moderated), Adelaide Hills (altitude) and portions of the Alpine regions of Victoria and New South Wales (altitude). The tank and carbonated wines are grown in warmer regions including traditional areas (McLaren Vale, Barossa, central Victoria) for Shiraz (sparkling Shiraz), Riverland, Riverina and Murray Darling (fruit for inexpensive sparkling wines), Kings Valley for Prosecco Human Factors and Yield Frost and high/untimely rainfall are the key risks here with Coulure and lower yields being the result. Botrytis in late season is an additional risk. Viticultural Factors and Harvest Harvest is several weeks earlier than still wines for high acid and 9-11% potential alcohol Avoids fall rains Avoids risk of late season disease pressure Shiraz is picked and vinified with still wines – not earlier. Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation Inter-regional blending Malo? Optional and winemaker choice. Yes for sparkling shiraz. Blending? Usually a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Blending across regions for inexpensive tank method, carbonation or transfer method wines, Maturation 2nd Fermentation Traditional Method with some transfer method employed – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. No lees requirements and varies with many going with extended lees aging up to 3 years. Bottling Style dependent. Production Traditional method wines on Tasmania are in two groups – larger companies that transport the base wine to the main island for sparkling production (Bay of Fires) or small producers that keep the specialized equipment on the island for sparkling production. The small producers are more likely to use hand riddling or limited gyropalettes. Style(s) Traditional method styles include non vintage, vintage, prestive cuvee, rose. There is no dictated minimum lees aging time but most employ extended lees aging of up to 3 years for pronounced autolytic character. Jansz and Arras produce late disgorged wines of 6 years lees aging. Medium + to high acidity, just ripe flavors and medium alcohol with varying autolytic character. Tank/Transfer/Carbonated wines are medium to medium + acidity with a range of sweetness levels, low to medium alcohol and light to medium body. No autolytic character and fruit driven wines. Brown Brothers, Jacobs Creek and Yellowglen are producers Sparkling Shiraz – dark in color and rangin from ruby to garnet. Medium minus to medium acidity, medium to high alcohol, medium but ripe tannins and balanced by dosage – often with as much as 20 g/l of residual sugar. Two basic styles of savory or fruity and may have oak flavors from the base wine treatment. Autolytic notes are masked if present. Some late disgorged sparkling shiraz are made. Moscato – (e.g., Innocent bystander) – a growing sector – similar in style to the Italian Moscato. Grapes tend to come from warmer areas and tank method produced. Low in alcohol, off-dry to sweet and with distinctive grapey flavors. Acceptable to good Prosecco – Glera based and from Kings Valley predominantly. The naming protections in Italy are not adopted as wine production was started by Dal Zotto in 2004, prior to the Italian efforts to protect the Prosecco name. Tank method and light, fruity in style with medium plus acidity, medium alcohol, light to medium body and delicate peach flavors. Tends to be off-dry to medium dry. Good to very good and some carbonated is made. Pet Nat – cloudy, with varying levels of pressure. Usually dry with medium plus acidity and medium alcohol. Varying levels of intensity and often with yeasty flavors and fruity or cider notes. Winemaker intent Style dependent Marketing and Business considerations Major international player in wine. 6% of total wine crush are sparkling wines equates to 66 million liters. 80% domestic with rising exports. Climate and Natural Factors
California dominates the market with some also produced in the more northern states of Oregon and Washington State. Washington is at higher latitude and has a good, continentality driven diurnal range (wider range) and makes limited wines. Oregon produces high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and enjoys cool, ocean influenced weather in Willamette Valley Sites in California are many and all are based on ocean cooling influences:
Grape(s)
Fermentation Base wine is SS fermented with neutral, cultured yeast. Malo? Tend to Malo to lower acidity – mouthfeel, texture and some potential reduction in fruit flavors. – Avoid malo in the bottle Blending? Blending a range of base wine – e.g., higher acid and lower acid base wines to achieve balance. Blanc de Noirs allows chardonnay – does not have to be 100% e.g., Schramsberg with 10% Chardonnay in their version. Maturation
Production 2018 – 12,500 cases Style(s) Traditional Method Inexpensive Tank Winemaker intent For Traditional Method – effort to produce balanced wine with autolytics Marketing and Business considerations Minor amounts relative to total capacity Champagne issue – some companies grandfathered in to use Champagne on the bottle (2006) although most do not Lost market due to low cost of Prosecco and mass interest in French Champagne Three types of producers –
Climate and Natural Factors
Germany is cold continental as a whole but much of the grapes used in base Sekt wines are grown and harvested in France, Italy and Spain so climate must consider the wide range of locations. Overall the grapes are neutral, low potential alcohol, retained acidity and just ripe flavors. Viticultural Factors and Harvest Hand Harvest for high quality – adding cost and price. Harvest is early for grape conditions. Under ripe grapes are sorted out. Crushed in other countries for Base Sekt and trucked to Germany for processing under refrigeration. Grape(s)
Fermentation Tank method is cool to retain fruit freshness Traditional method is the same… Blending? Usually, single variety but blends of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are common. Variation in climates and soils are overridden by blending base wines Maturation Depends on the style: Sekt and tank method must be bottled for market within 6 months of the start of the second fermentation. Sekt tank method requires 90 days on lees but does allow for 30 days if stirred. Traditional Method wines have variable lees aging with a minimum of 9 months with some longer. Riesling is tricky with lees and may be limited while others extend to 18 months for attractive smoky notes (rather than the brioche or biscuit). Bottling Mature Riesling may be used as dosage. Some producers use the transfer method. Sekt must be greater than 10% ABV and greater than 3.5 atmospheres in final wine Production Traditional Method for Winzersekt and some bA wines and Deutchersekt. Tank method is used for basic Sekt styles. The Term Sekt requires a second fermentation. Sekt has been a growing market since the 1950’s. Majority is inexpensive, high volume brands. 90 % is tank method Sekt Perlwein – tank or carbonated and not under Sekt rules is known as Secco and is usually frizzante – less than 3 atm and avoids taxes that are placed on Sekt wines. Style(s) Sekt – tank method – usually brut or extra dry, acceptable to good and inexpensive Deutschersekt– tank or traditional. No regional designation. 85% to be labeled as varietal wine – can be blended. Deutschersekt bA – bestimmer anbaugebite or regional designation. One of 13 regions that must be listed on the label with the wine grown and produced in the listed region. Can be tank or traditional. Winzersekt – grower sekt. Single estate bottled, grown and traditional method only. Usually Riesling but others are used. Vintage, variety and producer name must be on the label. Medium intensity apple, peach and citrus with smoky, autolytic notes. Usually a minimum of nine months but most are longer MOST ARE BRUT VDP Sekt – wine produced by members of the VDP. Hand harvested and whole bunch pressed. Must be produced for Sekt production. 2 tiers of 15 and 36 months of lees aging. “good sekt from the beginning” Perlwein – Secco – carbonated or tank and inexpensive. Often carbonated and sweeter than sekt. Dry or Trocken is up to 35 g/l, halbtrocken is 35-50 g/l and Mild is greater than 50 g /l. Marketing and Business considerations Additional Label Terms: Flaschenarung and Klassiche Flaschenarung – bottle or classic bottle fermentation, meaning the classic method or traditional method. For Klassiche, the transfer method is not allowed. Sekt market has 3 tier price categories of 4, 8 and higher euros. Growth and promise in the high end although Germany is generally a very price sensitive market, looking for the lowest price for the style they are seeking to buy. Each bottle has a 1.02 euro tax that does not apply to perlwein. Supermarket sales dominate and the market is highly competitive. Brands are supported heavily with promotions and advertising. Winzersekt is cellar door, wine retailers and restaurants sales dominant. 10% exported and most to local European countries (Eastern Europe) Key companies:Rotkäppchen– Mumm, Henkell & Co and Schloss Wachenheim, each with multiple brands. R-M is aggressive in the economy market, is the largest producer and has mass appeal. Private labels also are common Climate and Natural Factors
South America, adjacent to Chile, high altitude, dry, continental climate Mendoza is the key production area with warmer areas providing riper grapes for tank and carbonated wines Cooler areas include Uco Valley and Luyan du Cuyo, with their high elevation and high diuranal benefiting the growth of just ripe, low potential alcohol and high acid grapes for traditional method wines Newer and growing plantings in the southern areas of Rio Negro and Neuquin in Patagonia are cooler due to their southern latitude in the southern hemisphere and wide diurnal range due to continentality Some vineyards in San Juan region Human Factors and Yield New world so little is required and experimentation/flexibility in viticulture and wine production is allowed There is little humidity and therefore low risk of fungal diseases Frost, hail and untimely rain as well as nematodes are key risks here. Viticultural Factors and Harvest Harvest is early for higher acid wines in traditional method wines. 1-2 months earlier to avoid high potential alcohol Grape(s)
Blending? Traditional method wines are a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Regional blending is common to achieve balance in the wines Maturation 2nd Fermentation Traditional Method with some transfer method employed – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. No standard required but practice is usually 12 months with some going longer. Baron B Unique produces premium wines that start with 18 months on lees at their least expensive range. Tank wines are according to standard practices. Bottling Brut dominates the Traditional method wines Production Relatively small production but significant investment in place – including exclusion of the 12% tax in exchange for more investment. Style(s) Traditional method mid- premium priced wines, medium intensity, ripe apple and lemon with light autolytic notes – medium to medium + acidity, medium to medium + body and medium alcohol Vast majority are white wines Carbonated wines of various varieties - with Pedro Gimenez, Chenin, Semillon Tank method wines dominate production and are mostly chardonnay and pinot noir. – Fruity and off-dry to medium dry. Most popular style is Seco – brut at 11 g/l tank method wine Marketing and Business considerations History is Moet and Chandon investment in Mendoza in the 1959 timeframe 160 companies producing sparkling wine with the majority in Mendoza Leading companies are Moet Hennessy, Llorente, Mumm and Norton Investment by Freixenet and Sogrape Climate and Natural Factors
Human Factors and Yield
Viticultural Factors and Harvest
Grape(s)
Fermentation Some top cuvees use oak for fermentation vessels Malo? Widely used to lower acidity Blending? Young industry and recent move to non vintage and broader use of reserve wines – allows for consistency in a house style and to accommodate vintage variation Many now have 4 -5 years of reserve wines Some use oak for base wine with small portions blended Maturation 2nd Fermentation Traditional Method with some transfer method employed – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. 9 month rule for minimuim lees aging in the bottle – follows EU standard Bottling Brut dominates Production Only 3600 hectares and growing Style(s)
Winemaker intent Majority are TM, just ripe primary fruit and brioche autolytics. Marketing and Business considerations
Climate and Natural Factors
Human Factors and Yield
Viticultural Factors and Harvest Fungal diseases and untimely rain at fruitset and harvest are threats. Cremant rules apply – Hand Harvest Lime in the soil requires lime tolerant rootstock (e.g., Riparia Gloire) Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation
Fermentation Some top cuvees use oak for fermentation vessels Malo? Optional to the winemaker Blending? Blended for consistency prior to second fermentation Reserve wine is not typical but can be used in premium bottlings Maturation 2nd Fermentation Traditional Method with some transfer method employed – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. 9 month rule for minimuim lees aging in the bottle Up to 2 years for more autolytic flavor emphasis Bottling Brut dominates Production 13% of Loire valley wine is sparkling 1600 to 2100 has in last five year 500 producers of 112,000 hl Style(s) CREMANT de LOIRE
Winemaker intent Traditional Method, just ripe primary fruit and brioche autolytics. Marketing and Business considerations
Saumur Mousseux
Vouvray Mousseux
Climate and Natural Factors
Range of climates across a wide range of sites from just south of Chablis to the Beaujolais. – 250 km Cote D’Or is the most continental – cold winters and hot, dry summers Yonne (Chablis) is the coldest with no distinct hot and dry summer – need to face south to ripen Maconnais – around Rully is a key source of Chardonnay – Mediterranean influence Hautes Cotes de Beaune and Hautes Cotes de Nuit Human Factors and Yield Generally pruned to a higher crop load with maximum yield of 75 hl/ha. Growers declare in March if vineyards are producing grapes for Cremant. Viticultural Factors and Harvest Frost, Esca, fungal diseases, hail Cremant rules apply – Hand Harvest Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation
Fermentation Standard with neutral, cultured yeasts in SS. Malo? Optional to the winemaker Blending? Blended across regions Maturation 2nd Fermentation Traditional Method with some transfer method employed – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. 9 month rule and no trends stated Bottling Brut dominates Production 50% growth in production since 2000 Style(s) Chardonnay dominated wines with medium + to high acidity, medium intensity flavors of apple and lemon with brioche autolytic flavors MOST ARE BRUT.
To RAISE QUALTIY AND HIGHER PRICE for a Better return on the grape investment - The region introduced two levels of higher quality wines... Cremant de Bourgogne Eminent –
Cremant de Bourgogne Grand Eminent –
Winemaker intent Majority are TM, just ripe primary fruit and brioche autolytics. Marketing and Business considerations
Jean Charles Boisset and Louis Bouillot are key producers. |
Wine Up and DownDennis Smith, IWP, AWE, WSET 3, NPWE Archives
October 2021
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