This past Sunday unfurled into one of those rare days that etch themselves into memory with a vividness that time struggles to fade. Courtesy of my great friend Jairo, I found myself amidst an extraordinary assembly of individuals at the Franco Rocca winery in Neive, Italy. The ensemble included the winery's heart and soul, Franco and his wife Susan, alongside Darryl Baldwin and his wife Les, Evan Byrne, Jeffrey Chilcott, Mauro Repetto—an eminent Sommelier from the region, and Alan Spain. Together, we embarked on an exploration of both taste and camaraderie.
While the expectation might have been for the wines to steal the show—and indeed, their elegance was undeniable—it was Franco's impromptu singing performance that became the highlight of the day. Possessing a voice shockingly powerful for his stature, Franco's singing captivated us all, so much so that I regretted not capturing more of it on video. Our day began with Franco guiding us through his winery. It's a place where precision meets passion, and where a commitment to quality over quantity is evident in every corner. As Franco narrated the winery's evolution, his innate connection to the land and his craft became unmistakably clear. It seemed as though his winemaking decisions were as natural to him as breathing, seamlessly responding to the whims of nature year after year. The journey continued in the dining room, where Susan's culinary artistry took center stage. Course after course, her dishes were a symphony of flavors, perfectly paired with Franco's wines. Amidst occasional light-hearted reprimands for empty glasses, we savored the Dolcetto, Barbera, Langhe Nebbiolo, and the illustrious Barbarescos from Albesani (2008, 2015, 2016,2017, 2018) and Gallina (2019). Each wine was a testament to terroir expression, marked by sanguine, earthy notes, and a remarkable balance that showcased Franco's winemaking prowess. Our conversation flowed as freely as the wine, a mix of Italian and English that reflected the diverse yet deeply connected group gathered around the table. The sense of friendship, respect, and passion for wine was palpable, fueling our discussions and tastings. Notably, our blind tasting session brought its own surprises, with Mauro's selection of a Botrytized German Auslese Riesling winning accolades, while my Morgon Beaujolais and Jeffrey's French Malbec from Cahors delighted and confounded in equal measure. Reflecting on the day, what stands out is not just the exceptional quality of the wine and food but the artistry and dedication behind them. Franco and Susan's commitment to their craft, the depth of knowledge and passion for wine shared by Mauro, Jeffrey, and Jairo, and the genuine camaraderie that enveloped us all made for an unforgettable experience in Barbaresco country. As I recount this remarkable day, it's clear that Neive, Italy, holds a special place in the hearts of those who have been charmed by its beauty and bounty. For those of us fortunate enough to have experienced it up close, it's a reminder of the artistry in winemaking, the joy of shared meals, and the enduring bonds of friendship. Here's to many more such days, in the company of great friends and exceptional wine.
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The Wines of Diego Morra
The allure of Verduno is undeniable—a charming village, a slice of Piedmont’s heaven set against the backdrop of Italy’s most revered vineyards. Verduno gives the impression that time here is measured in vintages, not minutes or hours. And it was in this time-honored setting that I had the privilege of discovering the wines of Diego Morra, a winery that truly epitomizes the heart and soul of this fertile region. My love affair with Diego Morra's wines had begun months ago during a different jaunt through Piedmont's wineries. Back then, it was Marco Negri, a charming host in Neive, who introduced me to these fine wines. Fast-forward to the present, and here he was, welcoming us to Diego Morra with a broad smile and open arms. "I remember you," he chuckled. "Welcome back to my new home." The experience at Diego Morra began with a tour like no other. We journeyed through the winery’s veins—the meticulously kept barrel rooms exuding aromas of aging oak and maturing grapes. Marco’s narration echoed in the space, punctuated by our questinos, as he masterfully described the nuances of the Diego Morra winemaking process. Seated with a panoramic view of vineyards, including Monvigliero and Santa Stefano, the tasting was nothing short of spectacular. The Chardonnay offered an unexpected but delightful beginning—a flirtatious foreplay before the real stars came into the spotlight. Pelaverga, as always is a pleasant diversion—a local gem of Verduno, its vivacious, spicy profile lifted our spirits. And then came the Nebbiolo and Barolo—the prima donnas of Piedmontese wine. The day reached its zenith when Diego's wife graciously appeared, gifting us a vintage Barolo. "For being a good neighbor," she said, embodying the Italian spirit of warmth and generosity. "We must do this again," Marco insisted, sketching plans for future blind tastings. And just like that, over sublime wine and endless laughter, a promise was made for countless more afternoons filled with the joys of Italian wine. As we took our leave, my thoughts returned to the Diego Morra wines, and to Marco, the host who made the experience unforgettable. Verduno, and indeed Diego Morra, serves as a reminder that wine isn’t just about fermented grape juice—it’s about people, it's about terroir, and most importantly, it’s about the stories that flow as freely as the wine itself. From our house in Verduno, to the welcoming arms of Diego Morra, it seems the distance is not measured in miles but in moments of serendipity, of discovery and, above all, friendship. As we continue to exchange messages with Marco, I can only feel thankful for the beautiful neighborhood that makes us all feel like one big, happy Italian family. Until the next glass. Stepping into the sanctuary of Fratelli Alessandria winery, the air hung heavy with the intoxicating scent of fermenting grapes and aged oak. Verduno, Italy—home for us, at least part-time—unveiled yet another layer of its charm as we met with Vittore Alessandria, the owner and soul of this esteemed winery.
As Vittore guided us into the cantina, a sacred space where the alchemy of winemaking unfolds, we were greeted by the imposing sight of large botte—massive wooden barrels that have housed generations of Barolo. The atmosphere was dense with the complex aromas of maturing wine; it felt as if the room itself exhaled the essence of years of winemaking history and devotion. What caught our eyes in this aromatic sanctuary was a secluded collection of family-only vintage wines. These bottles, set aside and aging gracefully, seemed to be imbued with familial pride and encapsulated a legacy that transcended mere commercial enterprise. This intimate corner of the cantina was a poignant reminder that wine, at its best, is an intergenerational dialogue—a continuous thread that binds the past, the present, and the future. The tasting unfolded like a curated journey through Piedmont's soul. We commenced with the Langhe Favorita, a vivacious white that flirted with our palates. Its zesty citrus undertones set a high bar for what was to come. Then, a surprising Dolcetto d'Alba entered the scene—floral notes as if a bouquet of wildflowers had been uncorked, challenging the preconceptions often tied to this varietal. But the heart of the afternoon resided in the Barolo flights. First, the Gramolere 2019, a wine that seemed to carry the very essence of the hill it was grown on—layers of black cherry, leather, and a finish as lingering as an Italian sunset. The Monvigliero mirrored the elegance of Verduno terroir: ethereal yet complex. As for the San Lorenzo di Verduno, even my wife found herself interwoven into its story, a testament to the wine's ability to channel the quintessence of its origin. This connection was so palpable that Fratelli Alessandria immortalized the moment on their Instagram. It was the Barolo del Comune di Verduno, however, that summed up the experience. Like a well-composed symphony, it showcased a harmonious balance of flavors and complexity—a culmination of impeccable winemaking and the distinguished Verduno terroir. As a WSET diploma holder, describing these wines felt like interpreting verses of poetic genius. Each sip communicated the unique terroir and reaffirmed the mastery of Fratelli Alessandria's winemaking. We later stepped outside to absorb a breathtaking panorama stretching towards Alba. A view we often take for granted was reinvigorated, reminding us that even the familiar can captivate when seen through a new lens. A few days later, a serendipitous encounter with Vittore in Alba allowed us to share Hazelfern Syrah and Pinot Noir from Oregon/Washington State. "Different," he noted, "but of equal winemaking caliber." This international exchange was like a coda to our sensory journey—affirming that, though separated by oceans and styles, a dedication to the craft transcends borders. What began as a simple wine tasting evolved into a rich tapestry of experiences, reaffirming that a bottle of wine is more than just fermented grape juice—it's a narrative, a history, and a place, all captured in glass. The evening unfolded like the first sip of a well-aged Barolo, complex and layered, inviting yet holding something back for those patient enough to wait. The setting was Sempre in Bolla in Alba, where conversation ebbed and flowed as generously as the local nectar. It was there that a friendship was struck with Joel, a dedicated student of oenology at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo. His passion for wine, still in its academic bloom, sparked an invitation to Rosetta Saffrio, the lauded winery now steered by the skilled hands of Sara Vezza.
Arriving at the winery was like stepping into an intimate chamber concert where each musician played a distinct yet harmonious part. Vines clung to the rolling hills of Monforte d'Alba, each a green thread in a tapestry that stretched toward the castle of Serralunga d'Alba. Its ancient stones towered in the distance, a silent sentinel to the terroir beneath. Inside, the air was redolent with the intoxicating aromas of fermenting grapes and aged wood. The first pour, a Nebbiolo sparkling wine, awakened the palate like the opening aria of an opera, effervescent yet layered. And what a revelation to experience it through an Italesse wine glass—its highest-quality craftsmanship evident in small, etched holes that conjured an alchemy of bubbles, transforming the liquid into something that was part beverage, part spectacle. The Barbera was next, an intimate dance between acidity and fruit, offering a grounded counterpoint to the Nebbiolo's ethereal whispers. Finally, the Barolo—complex, elegant, and evocative. A melody of dark fruit, leather, and earth, it seemed to beckon the towering silhouette of Serralunga d'Alba into the tasting room, as if summoning the castle's stony gravitas into each sip. As we toured the winery, a playful gnome caught our eyes—a peculiar yet charming emblem etched onto wooden barrels and stamped onto wine labels. Ah, what a subtle nod to the terroir, we mused—a guardian spirit embodying the balance of tradition and innovation that marked Rosetta Saffrio's approach to winemaking. The tasting experience included a delightful and delicious cheese plate with honey and a vegetable frittata. Each selection was of local products specifically chosen to match the wines. The combinations elevated each sip and added to the unforgettable tasting experience. Leaving the winery, it was as if the lingering notes of a musical masterpiece hummed in the background—a blend of visual, gustatory, and olfactory melodies that would remain long after the bottles were emptied and the sun had set over Serralunga d'Alba. The experience, like the finest Barolos, was one that promised to improve and deepen over time, beckoning a return to Rosetta Saffrio's enchanting aria of vineyard splendor. Until then, we say salute, and may the glass always brim with the magic of the Langhe. Only the wine bottle pictures are mine.... Northern Italy has a depth and breadth of wines with the Veneto leading wine production, by volume, in all of Italy. A little-known wine of Northern Italy, in the DOC of Bardolino is the Rosè - Chiaretto. Chiaretto is a light, fruity, fresh wine with medium salmon color and driven primarily by fresh red fruit.
The DOC/Bardolino Superior DOCG and the Classico region are dominated by the Covina blends similar to those in Valpolicella. In the Bardolino DOC/G, up to 20% of other authorized grapes are allowed in a blend, such as Merlot. Merlot adds red fruit character and is often more ripe, elevating the minimum alcohol levels to the required 10.5% or 11% for superior. As a reminder the Corvina blends include Rondinella, Martinelli and other approved grape varieties with Corvina being 35-80% of the overall blend. Chiaretto is difficult to find so I asked my friend Stefano at La Vite Turchese in Barolo and he sent me the wine shown here and my tasting the notes follow. Background: Veneto, in Northern Italy is warm to moderate continental overall in climate with cooling and moderating influence from streams, rivers, and lakes. In this case-Bardolino is influenced by Lake Garda. A large and deep lake that cools much of the region. Soils are generally fertile overall but elevated sites are less fertility and offer better balance and drainage. Corvina Veronese- Black, vigorous, high yielding, dependable, suitable for a range of line styles, including being ideal for drying and appassionato methods. Well suited to Pergola training systems as air circulation is optimized for disease control. The first few buds do not bear fruit and the pergola provides shade to avoid sun burn on a high number of well positioned clusters. Pergolas also have lower temperature from the shade but can lose more water, offering a unique growing environment. Corvina offers violet, red plum notes with herbal nuances. Rondinella is a black variety that can grow in a range of soils and is relatively disease resistant although Esca is a growing problem. The grape accumulates sugars quickly and is ideal for recioto style wine. Molinari is a key blending grape that is high yielding, less grown, paler in color with high acid, red fruit flavors and adds lightness to the blend… Corvinone is another grape used in the area and has a similar name to Corvina but is not the same grape or a biotype. It has large berries that are susceptible to Downy Mildew and it does not ripen uniformly. This requires staged and repeated hand harvesting in whole bunches to assure quality and adds to cost of labor. Corvinone adds tannins and red fruit flavors to wine blends and it dries well for Appassimento and Recioto styles. I expected a Chiaretto to be made with these grapes but the one I received is produced from 100% Groppello-a local variety grape that is hand harvested in the middle of September. The wine undergoes a 6-hour maceration with whole clusters for color extraction and a hint to spice in the wine. It is fermented and matured in stainless steel to achieve 13% alcohol and about 1 g/l of residual sugar (dry). The wine was bottled in February 2021 and 4458 bottles were produced. TASTING NOTE: The wine is medium salmon in appearance with medium intensity aromas of strawberry, red cherry, violet, rose petal, almond, lemon and lime, fennel, thyme, fresh herbs, and a hint of sea spray. The wine is dry, high acid, medium in body with a very slight phenolic grip. The wine has medium + and intensity flows and a medium + finish. The finish starts with fresh, ripe fruit and transitions to an herbal, almond finish that then evolves further to ends on a dry, acidic note. This is a unique wine of good quality. The wine is well integrated, fresh and fruity. It expresses a surprising intensity of aromas and flavors on the palate but lacks overall concentration and intensity on the nose. The wine has high, refreshing acidity and simple fruity floors. The wine offers subtle levels of depth & complexity that are typical of a good rose but lack precision, clarity & complexity of higher rated wines. The finish is pleasant and falls off to an acidic, dry finish that is typical of on Italian wine of this style. Climate and Natural Factors
Warm continental climate with local moderating influences from Lake Iseo and cool air from the northern Alps that together create a climate that supports high quality grapes for traditional method sparkling wines (retained acidity and ripe fruit with low potential alcohol). It is the largest production region for Traditional Method wines in Italy. The area is primarily low hills with gentle slopes with frost risk, especially to the primary and early budding chardonnay and pinot noir grape varieties. Adequate rainfall on glacier created soils that contribute varying characteristics to the wines from floral notes to dried fruit, spicy and vegetal notes. Human Factors and Yield Irrigation is common and used if required. Flowering and fruitset can be interrupted by spring rains and training must accommodate fungal disease and botrytis risks. . High degrees of vineyard labor add cost to the process as labor is a key element of vineyard and winery costs. Single or double guyot training is used on the slopes as well as pergola training on the steeper sections. Humidity does create fungal disease pressure and botrytis. Frost can be an issue on the valley floor. Viticultural Factors and Harvest Mandatory planting density above 4500 plants per hectare and maximum of 65 hl/ha in yield, post press. Harvest is two weeks earlier than Trentodoc and begins in the second half of August. Cordon training with spur pruning or head trained, replacement cane (Guyot) is the norm and high yield techniques such as pergola or Geneva double curtain are prohibited. 75% ORGANIC vineyards in practice. Hand harvested is the norm. Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation White wines must be hand harvested and whole bunch pressed. Pinot Noir can be destemmed prior to maceration. Fermentation Base wine is SS fermented with neutral, cultured yeast. Riserva or millesimato can see partial oak fermentation or aging for added texture and complexity. Malo? Optional and winemaker dependent. Blending? NV blends with maximum 50% Pinot Blanc Reserve wine use is rare. Vintage labeling is rare as Millesimato requires extensive lees aging and adds and price so while common it is not labeled as such Saten is 100% Chardonnay. Rose is a minimum of 35% Pinot Noir and usually blended with chardonnay Maturation 2ndFermentation Traditional Method and required – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. NV blends with maximum 50% Pinot Blanc – 15 months on lees Saten is 100% Chardonnay. 24 months, less than five atmospheres final pressure and Brut only Rose is a minimum of 35% Pinot Noir – 24 months Millesimato is vintage and requires 85% of the stated vintage. Lees aging is 30 months Riserva is 60 months on lees Bottling EU scale for sweetness used and some zero dosage is used. Production Traditional Method. Majority are estate grown and produced wines. Style(s) See above Winemaker intent Quality sparkling wines that compete with Champagne. Marketing and Business considerations DOCG regulations apply Consorzio is in place that promotes the wine and focuses on continuous quality improvement. Three key companies – Berlucchi, Ca del Bosco and Bellavist lead production with 1/3 of all production. Total production has doubled in ten years. 90% domestic 10% Export to Switzerland, Germany and the US (plus Japan) Climate and Natural Factors
Moderate continental climate with cold winters and hot, dry summers. The area is in northwest Italy in the region of Piemonte and covers three subregions of Asti, Cuneo and Alexandria. This is the same area known for high quality Nebbiolo-based wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco and many of those growers also grow the Moscato Bianco grapes for Moscato wines. The grape prefers low fertility, limestone and clay, however, the success of the style has increased plantings to areas with higher clay content. The majority of plantings are on hillsides with Guyot training for increase light interception and prevention of fungal diseases. The Moscato Bianco grape is highly aromatic and attracts pests such as flying ants, wasps and bees as well as being susceptible to mites. Viticulture practices include research into and planting of clones that are less attractive to the pests as damage to the grapes leads to lower yields and disease pressure (e.g., botrytis bunch rot) Human Factors and Yield Hand harvest and mechanization are allowed depending on topography and producer focus on quality. The yield is limited to 75 hl/ha which is relatively high, especially for the small berried variety. The guyot training allows access for fungal sprays (powdery mildew), air circulation for reduced disease pressure and canopy management (leaving leaves in certain areas of the vine such as areas that receive afternoon sun) for the prevention of sunburn in hotter years. Untimely rain in the spring can affect fruitset and late rains can dilute the grapes. Medium density planting but no numbers given. Viticultural Factors and Harvest Harvest date is selected based on acidity levels and is done at separate times depending on the intended wine style. Typically early to mid September. Higher pressure and less sweet Asti Spumante (DOCG) are picked first with higher acidity being the key to the style and less overall ripeness. Grapes for Moscato Bianco (70% of the total production) is later with less acidity and more ripe flavors. Mechanical harvest is allowed and applied where possible. Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation Maximum yield is 75 hl/ha. Clarified, filtered and stored at 2-3 degrees for up to 2 years. The must will maintain flavor and aromatics for 2 years. Fermentation Asti method is a single fermentation with neutral, cultured yeast in pressurized tanks. Valve is open at the beginning and then closed based on sugar and alcohol levels. Pressure builds and CO2 enters solution, sugars continue to fall while alcohol rises. Fermentation is stopped by cooling the wine when the desired conditions (2 weeks frizzante and one month spumante) exist. Fermentation temperature is about 16 degrees C to preserve fruity character and avoid the production of esters and thiol flavors that would compete. Malo? Not used. Prevented to preserve acidity. Blending? Blended from sources in original press. Maturation No autolytics. No aging. Bottling Filtered and bottled after a few weeks. Production Asti method described above. Style(s) Frizzante wines of low alcohol 4.5 -6% ABV and less than 2.5 atm of pressure. Typically with 130 g/l of residual sugar. The wines have pronounced intensity aromas and flavors of orange blossom, grapes and peach with medium acidity. Asti Spumante is lower is sugar (100 g/L) and higher pressure (>3.5 atm). Alcohol is higher but still low. Above 6 and typically between 6-8% abv. New regulations allow for higher alcohol and drier versions to compete against Prosecco for market share. Extra Dry to Dolce is allowed or 12 g/l and above. Both wines are good to very good in quality and are inexpensive to mid-priced. Metodo Classico versions now allowed with 9 months onlees and dolce in sweetness levels (50 g/L of higher) Winemaker intent Produce wine on demand. Early sale and early consumption. Marketing and Business considerations High investment in filtering, centrifuge, flotation tanks, storage tanks and other equipment (also note that the pressing and storage process is often at a different location than the sparkling processes). Therefore large companies are the driving organizations. Martini and Rossi is the largest (60% of all wine) Small. Producers (Barolo, Barbaresco) send grapes to specialist sparkling companies but label under their companies. Coops are key to the production and provide the clarified, chilled must to large companies for sparkling production. Martini and Rossi source 35% of their fruit from 300 growers Consorzio promotes all wine styles including Asti Dolce. Asti Secco is being introduced to compete with Prosecco. Promote the Piemonte land of perfection. Doubled since 2009 with Asti in Europe mostly and Moscato d’Asti higher in exports. 70/30 Asti/Moscato Climate and Natural Factors Moderate continental and warmer than you would think this far north in Italy. Vineyards are on slopes and mostly between 400-700 meters in elevation. Warm air from the valley floor rises during the day and the Alps block colder air from the north. Many of the north facing slopes are planted with Chardonnay to further lengthen the already long ripening season to achieve the desired grapes of low potential alcohol (9-11%), high acidity and just ripe flavors of apple and citrus that complement autolytic flavors. Untimely rain that can affect fruit-set and can be an issue at harvest. Soils are rocky, well-draining soils of low fertility that also contribute to the slow accumulation of sugar and just ripe flavors of high intensity. The cool winds from the north do cool at night providing a high diurnal range that is useful in grape retaining their acidity. Human Factors and Yield Irrigation is not necessary. High degrees of vineyard labor add cost to the process as labor is a key element of vineyard and winery costs. Single or double guyot training is used on the slopes as well as pergola training on the steeper sections. Humidity does create fungal disease pressure and botrytis. Frost can be an issue on the valley floor. Viticultural Factors and Harvest High yielding grapes using Guyot and Pergola on steeper sections. 4500-6000 plants per hectare planting densities allow for higher yields with chardonnay, In particular, able to maintain quality at high yields. Harvest date is selected based on acidity levels and starts in early September Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation Maximum yield is 105 hl/ha. Many crop and press at lower levels. Fermentation Base wine is SS fermented with neutral, cultured yeast. Local yeast strains that have been captured and cultivated at the local enology school in Trento. Malo? Typical to lower acidity – mouthfeel, texture and some potential reduction in fruit flavors. Blending? Some use reserve wines in NV blends. Many are 100% Chardonnay. Other grapes are potential in the blend. Trento Rosato would contain some level of PN and/or Meunier. Maturation 2ndFermentation Traditional Method and required – Traditional method is the process in which a second fermentation takes place in the bottle in which it will later be sold. 15 months minimum but most go longer on lees. (20-30 months). Vintage wines must be 24 months. And Riserva 36 months on lees. Lees contact time affects the level of autolytic flavors and adds to the cost/price. Bottling Brut Nature to Dolce are possible. Majority is Brut Riserva may be Brut classifications only Production Traditional Method. 54 producers Four companies control 95% - Ferrari is the biggest. Owns 100 hectares and buys from 500 hectares. Total is 800 hectares. Rotari and Altemasi are coops and Cesarini Sforza Style(s) Traditional method white and rosato wines. Some extended lees aged wines of 5-10 years. High acid, delicate fruit apple and citrus with notable autolytics. Marketing and Business considerations 7 million to 9 million over the last decade Mostly domestic at 80% Cavit exports 65% Trademarked Trentodoc Climate and Natural Factors
Warm continental with 735 mm of rain annually. Untimely rain that can affect fruitset and harvest is common. Soils are mostly highly fertile, alluvial and clay with a high risk of compaction. The Po River creates significant humidity and fungal disease threats. Leaf hoppers and Grapevine Yellows disease are an increasing threat. 150 meter low hillsides. Human Factors and Yield Irrigation is used to assure vine health in warm and dry summers. Grass and cover crops are essential to minimize compaction between rows, eliminating vineyard management access (e.g., machinery) and work space. Fungal disease sprays are necessary and improving with sustainability practices. Viticultural Factors and Harvest High yielding grapes using Sylvoz or Geneva Double Curtain allow for the high yield and enable mechanization for lower cost. Grape(s)
Pre-Fermentation Maceration times vary by variety with 1-2 days as Lambrusco is high in anthycyanins… 3-4 days for Grasparossa. Fermentation Cool temperature base wine fermentation in 18-20 degrees to preserve the fruity aromas Malo? Blocked to preserve acidity. Blending? Consistent winemaking so blending is volume driven and incorporates locations within the DOC region. DOC rules apply. Maturation 2ndFermentation is majority Tank Method. 12-15 degrees for two weeks (Frizzante) and one month (Spumante). Lees is avoided as the flavors do not complement and aim is to promote the fruit character. Bottling No dosage for dryer style. Sweet wines stop fermentation or sweetened with RCGM. Large Volume Bottlings for quick release and consumption. Production Majority is tank method. Cooled to stop fermentation at desired sugar and pressure levels. Style(s) Mainly Red frizzante and Spumante wines in the family of Lambrusco Grape varieties. Fizzy red wines with flavors of Strawberry, red plum, red cherry and often a bit sweet. The wines can be pale or deep in color, medium to medium + in tannin and are usually high in acid. Acceptable to good and inexpensive to mid-priced. Some traditional method wines are produced Winemaker intent The wines are made mostly for local foods and these wines clearly follow – “What grows together – Goes together”. Fruit driven style with no perceptible autolytic characters. Frizzante and spumante at various sweetness levels. Marketing and Business considerations Can be labeled IGT and makes up 70-75 % of production. 11% minimum for spumante 10.%% minimum for frizzante Amabile or dolce can be 7% but grapes require 10.5-11% Potential Alcohol Spumante follows EU rules for sweetness Frizzante follows – Secco, Abboccato, Amabile and have wider ranges of residual sugar. Small properties and constant change in vineyard ownership as many growers have left the business. Coops and large companies dominate. 2/3 exported – Domestic sales are supermarkets and hospitality Struggle with the reputation and not a protected name Cantine Riuniti – large, joined by the CIV coops with 1800 members. Further consolidation and sells half of their range in Italy and exports to UK, USA, Mexico, Germany and France. Region: Piemonte Quality Level in EU/Italian Wine Law: Roero DOCG, Langhe DOC Established: Varietal 95% Arneis with up to 5% of other local white grapes; approximately 800 hectares and 560,000 cases of Arneis and Nebbiolo, primarily. Primary Grape Varietals: Varietal Arneis 95% Minimum in White, Riserva, and Spumante. Spumante can be at any sweetness level from brut nature to dolce. Aging is 4 months for Bianco, 16 months for Riserva Pairs with: Pasta with light herbs or pesto, Prosciutto and melon, lightly grilled seafood, Caesar salad, antipasto, goat cheese Characteristics: Arneis is a pale, lemon=colored wine on the lower end of acidity for a white wine. Typically low to moderate acidity, the wines remain fresh and lively with notes of White flowers, chamomile, peach, pear, apricot, citrus, almond. The wine can oxidize easily and is not intended for aging. Price: $+ Serve: Chilled Arneis is a white wine that is cultivated and produced in Piemonte and the better versions are borne of the Roero region, just to the north of the town of Alba and on the northern side of the Tenaro River. The wines are produced with 95% Arneis in both still and spumante versions. Interestingly enough, the only Arneis Sparkling wine I have had was in the United States but I drank the wine every single day I was in Piemonte. Arneis is one of the most food friendly, refreshing and approachable wines in Piemonte. Roero Arneis wines are very popular locally and are a common wine with antipasti. The varietal was nearly extinct about 50 years ago but has worked its way back to Icon status in Piemonte. Ceretto is the key winery that focused on reviving Arneis and gets credit for releasing the Blangé wines of the 1980's. Ceretto wines, especially the Blangé, resulted in expanded plantings and a strong return. The wine grows in an erect fashion and is often referred to as Nebbiolo Bianco as it can appear very similar in the vineyard. The grape is difficult to grow and can have poor yields. It is susceptible to disease and drought and is not particularly good at holding onto acidity. Careful canopy management and harvest date selection is key to these wines. The wine is dry and not outwardly fruity. Arneis ia also mildly acidic, low in alcohol and slight to medium body. The flavors are somewhat floral of dried flowers and a backbone of citrus. The balance of these wines and the round nature of their structure went so well with the local food. If a waiters brings a glass with a plate of Vitello Tonnato, it is a match made in heaven. . The wine is great with appetizers and fish meals or just having a conversation at the table. The real reason I fell in love with the wine was the way it fits into the culture and reminds me of how great the food and wine quality of Italy really is. The wine can be found in the US and a bottle is normally less than $20. |
Wine Up and DownDennis Smith, IWP, AWE, WSET 3, NPWE Marsala and Chicken Marsala
Orvieto
Carmignano
Rosso Piceno
Oltrepo Pavese
Negroamaro and Salice Salentino
Fiano di Avellino
Freisa
Erbaluce
Valpolicella
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