It is overused - I know - but the movie sideways did try to throw Merlot under the bus. Despite the effort, Merlot is perhaps the most popular wine style in the world as the grape can be found planted in diverse locations in nearly every country of wine production. The wines of the Bordeaux Right Bank, specifically in Pomerol and St. Emilion, set the standard for Merlot with their lush and intensely expressive wines. Other locations don't live up to the this impossibly high quality level but Merlot is the perfect wine for many. It has no rough edges and can produce soft, richly textured wines with lower acid and tannin levels as compared to more austere and highly structured wines (e.g., Cabernet Sauvignon). Merlot is often found in vineyards next to its collaboration and blending partner of Cabernet Sauvignon but they excel in slightly different climates and certainly in differing soil types.
If a climate is just a bit too warm for Pinot Noir and just a touch too cool for Cab Sauv - it is probably perfect for Merlot. This varietal also likes the cooler spots on water retaining soils of high clay content. The Bordeaux Right Bank is the perfect example as it restricts Merlot from ripening too early and becoming overly plummy. Merlot can be vigorous and ripens relatively early, therefore careful vineyard excellence proves critical. Overcropping Merlot will result in flavorless, light wines that lack character and depth. In the hands of an expert grower and producer, Merlot expresses balance, deep fruit concentration, and complexity. Merlot is the offspring of Cabernet Franc and the little known grape varietal named Magdeleine Noire des Charentes, the latter named for its early ripening characteristics aligning to the Feast of Ste Magdeleine in late July. The early ripening nature of Merlot certainly comes from its mother. Early records show merlot establishing itself in the Medoc and in Northern Italy (known there in that time as Bordo) in the mid 18th century and it has spread to the rest of Europe, the United States, South America, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Asia. Budding early and ripening at least 2 weeks before Cabernet Sauvignon make Merlot a perfect candidate for the diversity of these climates making it a good bet to excel in New Zealand, Germany, New York State and even Canada. Merlot can become jammy but it can also show green, underripe notes depending on the availability of sunlight. Sunlight synthesizes the color compounds and slowly reduces levels of methoxypyrazines that are responsible for the green notes. Good canopy management with proper sunlight interception will eliminate these flavors and achieve the balance of rich flavors and deep color that Merlot can achieve. There can be great debate on when to harvest but it is certain that Merlot must be picked quickly. The characteristics can change quickly in the vineyard and perfection is tied to the crop load. Higher crop loads can be harvested later and in a larger window. The key is to pick when acid levels are preserved at appropriate levels. Many prefer the lighter, more elegant Merlot expressions that find this balance. In the winery, Merlot is highly extracted for color, flavor and tannin and typically marries well with Oak. Some of the lighter Merlot styles extract less and are far more nuanced in their oak usage. Where Napa focuses on weight, St. Emilion is divided and produces wines of broader styles. Pétrus - the most famous Merlot producer - creates wines of great power and depth and made for longevity with oak as a key ingredient. The debate continues and it is a matter of taste. Merlot offers the range of styles and the pendulum is likely to move back and forth as the market demand and wine drinkers suggest. In any scenario, Merlot offers a velvety, succulent blend of red and black fruit, spices and oak influenced flavors. Merlot can be enjoyed without food but does well with patés, pheasant, duck, and spicier game dishes. It also blends well with spiced curries and savory foods with a touch of sweetness such as ham and gratins. A final note is a personal one. My son was not much of a wine drinker until the moment he tasted a 2011 Jarvis Merlot of Napa Valley. That was the moment for him and he never looked back. Within a few months, he passed WSET level 2 and had never looked back. His appreciation of wine has grown steadily since and he enjoys living in Northern Italy as a baseball coach. And yes - he has enjoyed several delicious Northern Italian Merlots!! And as always - the pictures are from other sites. Go visit Wine Folly and Producer sites for more information.
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Wine Up and DownDennis Smith, IWP, AWE, WSET 3, NPWE Archives
October 2021
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