Region: Campagna Quality Scale: Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Subregion of the Vesuvio DOC The DOC region was established in 1983. There is approximately 180 hectares under vine and production averages about 100,000 cases per year. Wine Styles: The DOC covers many varietals and wine styles. This reference focuses on Piedirosso only.
Piedirosso is the second most planted varietal in the entire Campania region with the majority of land under vine surrounding the city of Naples. The name signifies “red feet” as the vine has unique red coloring on the stalks. Piedirosso is known under other names in Campania, including Streppa Rosso, Piedirosso Benventano and Piedirosso Napoletano. This varietal is very old and well established in the region. It likely originated here on the slopes of Vesuvio where it is grown today on slopes of deep volcanic ash and lava rock. There are significant altitude differences between the many vineyards as Piedirosso is planted at both low and high levels of the Volcano. Piedirosso is a vigorous varietal in the vineyard, mid ripening and well suited to the volcanic soils. It is susceptible to peronospora but resistant to Oidium fungal disease. Many confuse Lacryma Christi as being its own DOC but it is included under the Vesuvio DOC production regulations and control. It is a subdivision with slightly more constraining production rules with respect to lower yields and higher potential alcohol at harvest. While blending is optional, many producers release 100% Piedirosso versions by preference but the Lacryma is mostly blended for style consistency from year to year. The resulting wines are typically light and easy to drink and express red fruit and herbal notes with hints of tar. Poor anthocyanin content in the grapes result in the lighter color and lower tannins. In Lacryma, Aglianico adds the tannin structure that Piedirosso often lacks while also softening the high acidity of the edgy Piedirosso varietal. Plums and cherry notes dominate Lacryma wines. The name, “Lacryma Christi”, translates to the “tears of Christ” and the origin of the name remains a mystery with many legends. Locals say that parts of heaven crashed into the Port of Naples when Lucifer was cast into hell and Jesus was so sad to lose an angel that he wept and his tears landed on Vesuvio where this wines is grown. A more likely story includes medieval monks that implemented an ancient drip system of wine making and derived the wine’s name from their unique production technique.
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Region: Marche
Quality Level in EU/Italian Wine Law: Lacrima di Morro D’Alba DOC Established: The DOC region was established in 1985. There is approximately 140 hectares under vine and production averages about 140,000 cases per year. Primary Grape Varietals: Verdicchio in Varietal Bottlings Pairs with: Locally, the wines are consumed with food and as an aperitif with local salami. Wine Styles: Red, Red Superiore and Passito wine styles are produced.
This thin skinned grape breaks easily and can be vulnerable to disease and pests. The vines also have a short life span and require replacement every 20 years or so. They do well on American root stock and the life span is increasing slightly with technology. With all the effort to produce healthy grapes and replant the vineyards, the grape varietal almost was lost to extinction in the 1980s but the cultivation of Lacrima has recovered with steady growth and expansion. It is again a source of dry and sweet wines in the Marche region. The recovery of lacrima also led to the establishment of the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC in 1985 and a move to higher quality. Red, superiore and passito (sweet wines) are produced at varietal blends (greater than 85% Lacrima) with potential blending partners of Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Verdicchio Bianco. The wines are highly aromatic and very perfumed. They maintain their acidity well and both dry and sweet versions balance that acidity with deep, concentrated flavors of strawberry, forest fruit, dark red fruits and earth. The tannins are typically refined and they mature quickly in the bottle. They have a dark color and the floral notes include lavender, rose and baking spices. Oak is rarely used but more experimentation is occurring. Region: Piemonte
Quality Level in EU/Italian Wine Law: Freisa di Chieri DOC and Freisa d’Asti DOC Established: The DOC regions were initiated in 1972 and 1973 Primary Grape Varietals: Varietal Freisa 90% Minimum in Chieri and 100% Freisa in Asti Pairs with: Normally paired with pasta and local meats, the wine also marries well with grilled and fresh vegetables. Characteristics: Commercially available Freisa wines are fresh, lively and dry reds that are matured in steel and display their naturally high tannic structure and acidity with medium body and medium alcohol. The flavors tend to display distinctive aromas and flavors of strawberry, sandalwood, earth, plum, violet, and raspberry. They are lightly colored, similar to Nebbiolo, and pack a punch with the tannin and acidity and most carry a bit of residual sugar for balance. Serve: Room Temperature Piemonte is one of the leading wine regions of the world, not to mention Italy, and much of the reputation comes from the fantastic Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Arneis, Gavi, and Moscato wines. While less is known of Freisa, it is a varietal that produces quality wines of character and interest. At one point in history, Freisa was planted across Lombardia, Veneto and Piemonte and was a very important wine producing grape of Northern Italy. Today it is mostly planted in and around the Asti region and is primarily produced in the two DOC production zones of Freisa di Chieri DOC and Freisa d’Asti DOC. Outside of DOC production, Freisa is commonly used as a blending agent in other regional wines. Genetic research has shown a direct relation between Freisa and Nebbiolo, either as a parent or a child of the most important modern grape of Piemonte Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The research has not concluded the exact relationship but more than 80% of Friesa DNA is identical to Nebbiolo. Similar to its relative, Freisa grapes are packed full of tannins that require great care in the vineyard and winery. Small and large grape varietals are known as Freisa in the area but the Grossa and Piccola are genetically dissimilar. The Piccola is known to be more aromatic and perfumed of the two. Historical records indicate Freisa was grown in Piemonte as early as the 16th century and was very popular until Barbera and Dolcetto moved it to the background in the 19th and 20th centuries. Global warming is helping with more consistent development of the Freisa polyphenols (color and tannin) with more sunlight and heat aiding in the accumulation and synthesis of color and tannin while achieving grape and phenolic balance in the riper grapes. Freisa often expresses a unique bitterness on the finish and variable levels of residual sweetness that make the wine less enticing than other Piemontese options. With the warmer weather and resulting soft and more refined tannin structure, Freisa based wines are growing in popularity. Commercially available Freisa wines are fresh, lively and dry reds that are matured in steel and display their naturally high tannic structure and acidity with medium body and medium alcohol. The flavors tend to display distinctive aromas and flavors of strawberry, sandalwood, earth, plum, violet, and raspberry. They are lightly colored, similar to Nebbiolo, and pack a punch with the tannin and acidity and most carry a bit of residual sugar for balance. The two DOC regions produce varietal blends of greater than 90% Freisa with Chieri requiring 90% in their Rosso, Superiore and Spumante presentations. Asti DOC wines are 100% Freisa. The DOC regulations are identical for aging requirements, which include a minimum of one year total age with at least 6 months in bottle. There is no requirement for time in barrel. In both cases, the spumante wines are produced at variable levels of sweetness and are typically around $20 in the open market. The DOC regions focus on still wines with a serious aim at quality while also producing the high-powered and fun frizzante, commonly described as a super Lambrusco. The Freisa di Chieri DOC focuses on Freisa as a traditional grape worthy of continued cultivation and focus. The vineyards are generally located around the town on Chieri. Freisa d’Asti covers the entire province of Asti, including all of Monferrato Astigiano. Freisa has held a particularly strong foothold here, especially in the hills north of Asti. The still, superiore, frizzante and spumante styles can be found ranging from totally dry to off-dry and semi-sweet. The most traditional style is off-dry frizzante. Recently, I was at a local wine store looking for a Sparkling wine from Northern Italy – A Trentodoc. I could not find any among the large selection of sparkling wines and asked a friend if there was any available. “We are discontinuing it. No one will buy it but you can have it for $8 a bottle.”
Trentodoc is a sparkling wine made exclusively on the Trentino Alto Adige region of Northeast Italy with Trentino grapes. Unlike Prosecco from nearby vineyards, Trentodoc is made with extended lees aging in the bottle and it made entirely with the Classic Method of production. The same method used in Champagne with a second fermentation, riddling and disgorgment in the bottle in which it is sold. Harvest is by hand and great care (and modern technology) goes into every bottle so that Trentodoc wines can express their unique terrior. The cool climate, high altitude and the essence of the area is reflected in the high acid and just ripe flavors of the Chradonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Meunier varietals. A local institute of wine, dedicated to Trentodoc research and processes helps drive the discipline and the accurate controls of the wine making. This includes local yeasts that have been cultivated for Trentodoc wines so that the local expression remains while assuring both the primary and secondary fermentations occur with the same yeast. This is harder than it sounds as many yeasts struggle in the cooler temperature, high acid, 9-11% alcohol and high pressure conditions of the second fermentation. Every effort is made to assure the wines are produced with utmost quality while offering the unique expression of the region. Techniques unique to the region are used to compliment the Classic Method procedures including varietal limitations, vineyard practices, maximum yield, time on lees (15 months non vintage, 24 months vintage and 36 months Riserva), and maximum alcohol levels. The wines are also governed by the Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (DOC) regulations (created in 1993), as captured in the name – Trentodoc. Interestingly enough, sparkling development in Italy was created in the province of Trento but the Ferrari family in the late 19thcentury. Giulio Ferrari first brought grapes from France when the region was part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. After learning the trade in the French Champagne town of Eperney, Ferrari brough his knowledge and began the long journey to Trentodoc wines. There are now more than 40 wine producing Cantine, including Cavit, Ferrari and Rotari. Trentodoc wines typically show a delicate yet rich bouquet with a dry, rounded, balanced and elegant palate. Like the mountains that the grapes are grown, Trentodoc wines hide nothing and allow their unique character to shine through. They are crisper than their Franciacorta cousin and harvested several weeks after wines of Lombardy to assure perfect ripeness and preserved acidity in every grape. The wines have been described as reflecting the cool mountain breezes that touched the grapes. Flavors of green apple, almond, and white flower are common. Trentodoc sparklers are versatile with food due to their high acid. They are affordable with an extremely high ratio quality to cost. The majority of Trentodoc wines are Chardonnay based with Pinot Noir rounding out the blend. Meunier and Pinot Blanc are allowed but are rarely used. Most are white wines with the occasional rose and are offered at three quality levels –
Many of these wines, especially the Riserva, see extended Lees aging that can range from 55 to 108 months. Serve these wines chilled but let them sit for about 5 minutes to calm their fresh from the bottle aggressiveness. Serve with food or just use in a toast. Enjoy!! If you want more information on the traditional method – check out my friend’s site. Thanks Kathleen (not related Smith) for the great work on the Happy Vine!! https://www.thehappyvine.net/wine-education/traditional-method Today, we will be discussing a wine that comes from a lesser known and less visited region of Italy. La Marche. Italians say that the Region of La Marche is like finding all of Italy in one region. It has beaches, mountains, history, food and wine – all that anyone could want to find.
Marche is the region in the middle of Italy, on the Adriatic coast, where Sangiovese and Montepulciano black grapes merge. They are produced into delicious and sometimes complex, super-high quality red wines. La Marche, however, is also known for its principal white varietal – Verdicchio. Verdicchio is now known to be identical in DNA to Trebbiano di Lugana and Trebbiano di Soave, two grapes that are widespread across the Veneto region. Verdicchio can also be found in Lombardia but La Marche leads Italy in the production of Verdicchio wines with 64% of the total plantings of this wine across Italy. If you discount the biotypes, 95% of Verdicchio is grown in Marche. Recent research shows that there is significant flavor differences between Verdicchio and the Trebbiano versions that are grown elsewhere, giving Verdicchio a reputation as one of the truly noble Italian white grapes. Within the political region of Marche, we find five DOCG regions with two dedicated to Verdicchio. We will discuss Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG at a later time and focus on the Castelli di jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG that is located centrally in Marche, inland and a bit north of Matelica. With both DOCGs, they designate DOC regions for the non Riserva wines. In the case of Castello di Jesi, the Italians reverse the words of the denomination and thus we have:
Both denominations cover the same geographical area and produce varietal Verdicchio white wines. The DOC produces sparkling wines and a Passito that are also varietal. The DOCG is dedicated only to the white still wine as a Riserva version. There is a classico subzone that can also be shown on the bottle. The region has 22 “Comuni”. The wines are grown in the hillsides of the Appennine mountains that are between 12-20 km inland and at relatively high altitudes of 200-500 meters above sea level. The climate is mostly mediterranean but some continental effects are felt as one goes further inland and up in altitude. Verdicchio must have a minimum alcohol content of 12.5% in the riserva wines with aging requirements of 18 months/6 in bottle. The wine is early to bud and ripens well. Above all, the wine is high acid as it maintains acidity naturally and enjoys a wide diurnal temperature range in the DOCG locations. The acidity gives Verdicchio a strong backbone and because of this structural component, it is very ageworthy. It is floral with delicate fruits and nutty flavors. The wines are loved for their sweet, peachy aromas and can often have a somewhat oily texture. Other flavors that appear are lemon curd, apple, honey and almonds with a salin finish. Above all, Verdicchio is a typical Italian white wine. The flavors and acidity grow to the back palate (a back palate wine) and almost always finish with a slightly nutty and bitter or phenolic flavor. There can often be some tinges of green in the otherwise pale, lemon color. After all, Verdicchio is one of the grapes named for its color as Verde is green in Italian. Marche is a region in which International grapes have never taken a foothold. When International wine markets showed enthusiasm for genuine Italian varietals, Verdicchio is one that received immediate attention. A renewed focus on quality showed immediate impact in the market and Verdicchio remains a strong force in local and international markets. For many years, Verdicchio was bottled in a unique format (in the pictures below) but the quality problems of the 1970s and 80s became associated with the bottle and it is now bottled in standard formats. The key differentiators for Verdicchio is the slightly elevated aromatics and the oily texture. Taking the wine as a whole, the oiliness is a key indicator and true characteristic of quality Verdicchio. A sweet almond, phenolic finish is the other. Enjoy. A presto. The Sangiovese belt of central Italy - A focus on Chianti Classico
Sangiovese has a unique history that is very unlike its current status as the centerpiece of Tuscan Chianti wines. There is great debate whether the Super Tuscans or the Sangiovese based wines are the real kings of Tuscan wines and my vote would likely lean toward Brunello di Montalcino as the best of the region and second only to Barolo and Barbaresco for Italian dominance. Brunello is a clone of Sangiovese and a well-known DOCG of southern Tuscany with rules (disciplinare) regarding the wine’s content (100%), aging (depends on reserve designation but requires wood and bottle aging before release) and other aspects of this great wine. As one in the United States knows, most consider Chianti as the king of Tuscany even if they also don’t know the history and difficulty associated with this stubborn and sometimes difficult varietal. Sangiovese grows best where the Mediterranean and continental climates of Italy meet. Rising from the seaside areas of Tuscany that grow and produce more French and international varietals for blends and super Tuscans, the region moves inland into hillsides of the Apennine mountains where the climates cross and Sangiovese is the most widely planted. Further south in Maremma, the climate can be too warm and turn Sangiovese into a jammy and flabby wine with reduced acid and a lack of balance. Move into areas where Montepulciano is grown and the climate can become too cool, leaving a tough and astringent Sangiovese wine. In a perfect year, winter snows in the mountains will help raise the water table for the typically hot and dry summers. Even though Sangiovese is a late budding varietal, spring frosts can arrive in late spring, especially around Florence where the weather stays cooler. This was particularly true in 1997 when much of the crop was lost in a late April frost even. In a normal, mild spring the Sangiovese can develop in the buds for an expended period until bursting late and moving into flowering stages in late May or early June. Summer heat will take over and the ideal year brings the occasional and periodic rains that help provide water and reduce heat below 33 degrees C. Often, temperatures rise above this point and the stomata of the vines will close down and photosynthesis shuts off. Extended heat is rare but heat events can contribute to reduced photosynthesis and associated ripening of the grapes. Note: Veraison in Italian is INVAIATURA September is the critical month for Sangiovese in order to achieve the proper balance of fruit and phenolic ripeness while maintaining high acidity. Planted between 200-500 meters in the hillsides, the better sites have a wide diurnal range in September, reducing the loss of malic acid while still having warm and sunny days for the phenolic development. Achieving the balance in fruit concentration with acidity is key as is the timing of the color (anthocyanins) and tannins in determining the harvest timing. At harvest, the grapes are picked early even with warm sunshine but clearly avoiding the heat of the day. Most vineyards are hillside with southwest or southeast aspects. Southwest aspects are preferred as the southeastern facing vines will require more careful canopy management for late afternoon heat and sunshine. Avoidance of sunburn is key to Sangiovese. A general approach is to maintain open hill tops to encourage airflow for disease control. Sangiovese can be susceptible to both powdery mildew (oidium) and downy mildew (Peronospora) which the open airflow and low rainfall can help to avoid. Sangiovese can also be susceptible to grapevine yellows which requires the leafhopper vector to be controlled. An interesting fact is that many of the Chianti region and classico region vineyards are poorly placed and this alone, is one of the reasons that Sangiovese and Chianti Classico can be spoty and inconsistent in the glass. There are two key attributes of soil that must always be considered and that is chemical makeup and texture. Water drainage and retention is key as well as the ability for the roots to develop into the soil. Adequate levels of minerals are critical for photosynthesis, grape ripening, root health, water flow and all aspects of the vine processes. Tuscany has two basic types of soils – Gelastro and Albarese. Remembering that the majority of root growth occurs in the top 50 cm of soil, these soils can be affected by the amount of larger rock matter that can exist in the region. Both soils are reasonable in acidity and they have limestone, sand, clay, schist and a little sand. Albarese is richer in calcium and more granular and is found more in the Bolgheri region on the coastal areas. It has layers of sand, clay and gravel. Galestro is the soil of the Chianti Classico region and is widespread across all of Tuscany. It is more schistous and full of crumbly rock and clay. This soil helps define the Classico region as it defines the borders. The most important characteristic of the soil type, especially with Chianti Classico Sangiovese is the ability to warm up quickly. It has good drainage (less water in the soil and it warms up faster) and the continental climate influences can bring sudden temperature increases in the spring. This helps control the consistency in budburst and associated shoot and leaf growth that enables consistency in grape ripeness at harvest. Sangiovese has a strong tendency to develop into a vegetative cycle due to high vigor and thus must be controlled with planting density and training techniques. There are two schools of thought in the Chianti Classico region to include Cordon trained and spur pruned vs Guyot or cane replacement training. Many of the top producers in the Chianti Classico region believe that the best wines do not come from Cordon training and insist on Guyot. They plant at higher density to create competition among the vines. 7000 vines per hectare with guyot training in 2 directions is common and achieves, in the better locations, more stable acid structure and improved polyphenol and anthocyanin development. As stated earlier, the proper balance of these attributes is important in the better wines. Canopy management was not widely practiced in earlier centuries as an art of the Chianti Classico region but is not accepted as critical and essential for proper balance in the wines. The critical balance of photosynthesis, transpiration and respiration in the vines throughout the growing season is now actively managed in the Classico vineyards. Recent trends include green harvest and cover crops. Broad bean plants are used to increase N2 into the soil. On-going research into the best canopy management, cover crop and green harvest timing is on-going as an ever increasing focus on quality continues in the region. Sangiovese will typically ripen and be readied for harvest in late September to the middle of October. Experts suggest that harvest timing has moved approximately 3 weeks in fifty years due to global warming. When the proper balance of ripeness is achieved, most vineyards are harvested with machine which provides de-stemming in the process. Past harvest machines were large but have been redesigned to be much smaller to accommodate the higher density plantings and multi-directional, bush like and guyot training techniques. Blending patterns for Chianti wines have changed significantly from the history use of other varietals as the base wine (Canaoilo Nero) to recent disciplinare that bases most wines on Sangiovese (80% for Classico wines). Gran Selezione designations require 100% sangiovese but are not a focus of this discussion. Bordeaux varietals have made a change to the Tuscan wine scene and merlot, cab sauv, cab Franc and petit Verdot are common in the classico region as well as essential to the Super Tuscan blends. 20% of these varietals, if improved, can be added to the base wine. The establishment of new and modern wineries with modern, computer controlled and high-tech equipment is a major movement in the Classico region. Well established architects and winery experts are being employed to design and build both efficient and esthetically pleasing winery properties. Temperature controlled macerations, fermentation and cap management systems are all being implemented more commonly. Giulio Gambelli, a legendary wine consultant and believer in traditional vineyard and winemaking techniques might cringe at this trend but the “Maestro Assaggiatore” cannot contain the increase of technology and control in modern Chianti Classico wines. After a final sorting at reception, the recently harvested grapes are readied for a pre-fermentation maceration aimed at extracting color and flavor in an aqueous solution (tannin is more soluble in an alcohol rich solution), thus limiting the extraction of tannins. Pre-fermentation maceration is a function of temperature and time and the new machinery allows for extended, low temperature maceration that darken the wine and strengthen the fruit flavors. Some producers macerate for 5-6 weeks to create age-worthy wines. Fermentation is also common for 10-20 days with ramontage (pump-over), pigeage (punch down), and delestage (rack and return) as options for cap management. Malolactic conversion is typically started after primary alcoholic fermentation – the process of converting grape sugars and yeast into alcohol, CO2 and heat. The winemaker will typically increase the temperature or inoculate the wine with lactic acid bacteria to soften the wine and reduce the total acidity. Sangiovese has relatively high levels of malic acid for a red varietal and MLF is a half-reaction, converting malic acid to lactic acids and increasing the pH of the wine. Tuscan and Chianti Classico wines often perform the MLF in oak botte or barrels for improved integration of oxidative and wood influences. When this is done, the wine is transferred to oak barrels at the conclusion of primary fermentation and the MLF conversion occurs in the barrels or maturation botte. The slow oxidation process also stabilizes the color of the wine as the anthocyanins (color) bind with tannins and make them less susceptible to SO2 bleaching and lees absorption and the color is stabilized. Many types of oak barrels are used to include multiple sizes and origins. Large botte of French or Hungarian oak are coming back into style to reduce the level of new oak influence that has been common in recent years. The objective of a slow and steady oxidation of the wine in oak is key to softening the tannins and maturing the wine before consumption. Glass-lined concrete tanks that are highly thermally stable are also increasing in usage when anaerobic conditions are preferred. These tanks can maintain temperature and avoid oxidation with proper ullage management. Aging of Classico wines include 1 year minimum for Rosso, 24 months with at least 3 months in bottle for riserva and 30 months and 3 months in bottle for Gran Selezione. These rules are based on small barrel aging and many producers will extend the aging when using large botte. Fining and filtering is being reduced as many consumers prefer the more natural wines and believe the classico wines are improved with less manipulation in the final stages. Chianti Classico wines can be confused with the northern and very powerful Nebbiolo grape. dBoth are light to medium in color depth and can have hints of garnet on the rim. Both are medium to full bodied wines and high in aromatic qualities. Sangiovese has medium to high tannin levels and lower quality tannins as compared to Nebbiolo in terms of ripeness and sophistication. Sangiovese has smaller grain tannins that are felt on the gums and they can be a bit sandy in nature. Young sangiovese is often described as having a sandpaper quality but many age well and develop very nicely. The flavor profile is typically ripe cherry and raspberry with coffee and herbal notes. The last topic of this discussion is a unique approach that is little known but based on traditional methods of centuries past. Governo all’uso Toscano is an interesting concept that softens the Chianti and adds alcohol, glycerol and body to the wine. Traditionally, Trebbiano grapes were allowed to raisinate on the vine (appassimento – sever the shoot and allow the grapes to hang) or dry them on mats while the base wine was produced. Now this is done with Sangiovese and the dried, concentrated grapes are added to the base wine, initiating a slow, second fermentation that lasts until the spring after harvest. These Governo wines are round and deep and many experts say this process creates better wines. Many producers have initiated a line of wines and the bottles must show “Governo all’uso Toscano on the label. I am going to go look for one now. Ciao a Tutti! Hello everyone.
Today, we will be discussing a wine that comes from a lesser known and less visited region of Italy. La Marche. Italians say that the Region of La Marche is like finding all of Italy in one region. It has beaches, mountains, history, food and wine – all that anyone could want to find. Marche is the region in the middle of Italy, on the Adriatic coast, where Sangiovese and Montepulciano black grapes merge. They are produced into delicious and sometimes complex, super-high quality red wines. La Marche, however, is also known for its principal white varietal – Verdicchio. Verdicchio is now known to be identical in DNA to Trebbiano di Lugana and Trebbiano di Soave, two grapes that are widespread across the Veneto region. Verdicchio can also be found in Lombardia but La Marche leads Italy in the production of Verdicchio wines with 64% of the total plantings of this wine across Italy. If you discount the biotypes, 95% of Verdicchio is grown in Marche. Within the political region of Marche, we find five DOCG regions with two dedicated to Verdicchio. We will discuss Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG at a later time and focus on the Castelli di jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG that is located centrally in Marche, inland and a bit north of Matelica. With both DOCGs, they designate DOC regions for the non Riserva wines. In the case of Castello di Jesi, the Italians reverse the words of the denomination and thus we have:
Both denominations cover the same geographical area and produce varietal Verdicchio white wines. The DOC produces sparkling wines and a Passito that are also varietal. The DOCG is dedicated only to the white still wine as a Riserva version. There is a classico subzone that can also be shown on the bottle. The region has 22 “Comuni”. The wines are grown in the hillsides of the Appennine mountains and have a minimum alcohol content of 12.5% in the riserva wines with aging requirements of 18 months/6 in bottle. The wine is high acid and because of this structural component, ageworthy. It is floral with delicate fruits and nutty flavors. The wines are loved for their sweet, peachy aromas and can often have a somewhat oily texture. Other flavors that appear are lemon curd, apple, honey and almonds with a salin finish. A presto. Ciao a Tutti! Hello everyone.
Today, we will be discussing one of the three principal red wines of Piemonte. A true example of the uniqueness and tradition of Italian wine that is grown and produced in one of the best wine regions in the world. Barbera D’Asti. Barbara itself is found across the peninsula and can be used in blending but in its true home of Piemonte, it is usually vinified as a varietal and together with Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, forms the family of principal red wines of the region. The diversity of Barbera can be tied to its flexibility with soil type and it has no issues with sandy or clay based soils. The Asti DOCG region for Barbera is believed to be the best expression of this variety due to the climate and limestone rich earth and the relatively cool temperatures that it can enjoy. Barbera started in the neighboring community of Alba, specifically in the Roero and Langhe DOC zones, starting in 1685. Today, those wines are 100% Barbera with Rosso and Superiore versions and can be very refreshing, robust and delicious wines with flavors and mouthfeel of custard and prunes. Barbera from the hills around Asti are considered to be slightly more sumptuous and full-bodied. They are also known to be more receptive to aging in the bottle to bring out the full expression of the terroir. A Barbera D’Asti is required to be at least 90% Barbera and can be found in Rosso and Superiore versions based on potential alcohol levels and aging requirements. For Superiore, the age requirement increase from just several months to a minimum of 14 months with wood aging of 6 months. The usual blending grapes include Freisa, Grignolino and Dolcetto, three other varietals that are exclusive or widely planted in Piemonte. Nizza was known to be another excellent subzone for Barbera and after deciding to follow more strict regulations, they became their own DOCG in 2014. Barbera D’Asti is typically ruby red with purple accents when it is young. A dead giveaway on the streets of Alba when you try a tasting of the local wines. Barbera D’Asti is fresh with flavors of ripe plum and with wood aging is a lush, creamy wine with warm spicy fruit flavors that marry so well with the local sausages, aged cheeses and pasta dishes. A special note about the Italian language and culture – Italians refer to an “abbinamento tra il vino e il cibo” - a blending between wine and food. Usually, the Italians talk of wine/food pairing as a marriage. They literally say that a wine “marries well” with certain foods. The term is “si sposano bene”, which literally means they marry well together. A presto. Ciao a Tutti! Hello everyone.
Today, we will be discussing a wine that nearly everyone is familiar with – Chianti. And, of course, the Sangiovese grape that is so well known. It is the most widely planted black grapes in Italy and can taste quite differently depending on where it is planted, grown and vinified. Chianti is not just a simple region and it has seven sub-regions that we want to discuss briefly. Some are more well known than others, such as Colli Sinesi and Rufina and all seven “hills” of Chianti should not be confused with the Regional DOCGs associated with Sangiovese. A list of each is below with a brief table of the characteristics of the six hills of chianti… Here are the Sangiovese based DOCGs of Tuscany:
Here are the subregions of Chianti:
With all of this opportunity to see and taste the best of what Sangiovese has to offer, there is little wonder that Tuscany has a reputation for great wines even though it falls into seventh place among the 20 political regions for production levels. Find a Rufina and a Colli Senesi near you and compare them for their individual elegance and sense of terrior. A presto. Ciao a Tutti! Hello everyone.
Nebbiolo is the king of grapes in Italy and is known all over the world when the names of Barolo or Barbaresco are on the label. Did you know that Italy has seven important DOCG areas for Nebbiolo? Each of them takes advantage of the fact that Nebbiolo reflects the microclimate and the location in the final wine – the terrior speaks easily through Nebbiolo. In the northern part of Piemonte, Gattinara and Ghemme sit in the alpine hills and grow Nebbiolo on the southern slopes. The microclimate is different between the two DOCG areas but there is some commonality. The climate results in a later harvest than Barolo – a few weeks later, starting in October, Nebbiolo in these regions is ready. The vineyards are hand picked and the wine is vinified and put in “botte” for at least 2 years. For Riserva in Gattinara, it sits in barrel for three years and ages almost 4 years in total before release. Nebbiolo is famous for its austere tannic structure and the wine must age as it is unapproachable and overpowering in its youth. Compared to Barolo, Roero or Barbaresco, Gattinara wines are a but more rustic and lack the rose petal notes that can be so obvious in a Barolo. Much of the flavor profile remains and the minerality kicks in even higher due to the iron rich and acidic nature of the soil. Gattinara has high levels of volcanic soil while Ghemme is more clay based. This difference alone creates two different wines. Gattinara blends 90% Nebbiolo with Uva Rara and Vespolina while Ghemme lowers the percentage to 85%. Both regions are known to experiment a bit by maturing some wine in different types and sizes of barrel. They have recently tried maturing some in bottle and blending it after several years for a more complex wine. In any case, the wines are excellent examples of Nebbiolo and the reflect the windy and dry nature of the slopes. The grapes mature slowly and develop into a powerful wine that is drunk with local foods once it is released. The wine is age-worthy and can be set aside for a decade or more but can be drunk immediately. A Gattinara Nebbiolo is supple on the palate with an elegant nose that tends a bit more to Barbaresco in style but still very different in the end. They can be found on the market below the prices of Barolo and Barbaresco and can be a great bargain in the $30-40 range. I love the Nebbiolo grape and never pass up any wine made from it even though some people can find them tannic and too powerful. As for me… I am buying more. I also want to thank Wine Folly for their incredible work on wine descriptions. There are two examples below. The latest addition of their book is even more amazing than the first editions. Buy one today if you don't already have it as it is an amazing resource. A presto. |
Wine Up and DownDennis Smith, IWP, AWE, WSET 3, NPWE Marsala and Chicken Marsala
Orvieto
Carmignano
Rosso Piceno
Oltrepo Pavese
Negroamaro and Salice Salentino
Fiano di Avellino
Freisa
Erbaluce
Valpolicella
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